Purposeful Meandering Around Remote WA - Week 8

Saturday started as Friday had finished, mother nature had unleashed herself overnight with howling winds and rain scrawls lashing most of Victoria, the temperature reflected the conditions and the time of year and we were grateful to be indoors. We’d soon packed up, the local tv news highlighted some the damage from the overnight winds. We headed into the centre of St Arnaud for a look around before continuing our travels across central Victoria. The coldness ensured we didn’t get out of the car too often. Occasionally we would stop to find a geocache, only to regret getting out of the car. By lunchtime we’d reached Bendigo, the warmth of the day had slightly improved and we took some time to look around. We’d been to Bendigo on a number of occasions but marvelled at the old tourist tram and old buildings which litter the Main Street. Just north of town in Huntly is one of the best pie shops we’ve found and the timing was perfect to once again feast on what they had to offer. Pushing on, we had a look through the large rural township of Shepparton before heading to Benalla for the night, where we spent another lazy night indoors.

Our penultimate day, Sunday started at slow pace as we needed to be in Beechworth for 12pm, so we spent to first couple of hours geocaching around Benalla and Wangaratta before making our way across to Beechworth. The alpine areas directly ahead of us still had blizzard warnings in place and as such there was no views of the snow capped mountains of Victoria. Just before lunch we found ourselves in Beechworth which was perfect timing to allow us to feast on the yummy pies from the famous bakery. We did a bit of sightseeing before making our way around to the Billsons Brewery which had the girls in our family delighted. Spoilt for choice and offering many flavours that aren’t in the shops yet we walked out with an ample supply of the products…. Back on the road and continuing northwards we soon crossed the border, back into NSW and the realisation that our holiday was quickly coming to an end. Heading north to Wagga we’d decided to spend our last days catching up with friends. By late afternoon we were catching up with geocaching friends for coffee and we had dinner with an SES friend who’s currently in Wagga for work.

Monday was a similar story to the previous day, we only had a few hours drive to be home but spent most of the day stopping off to catch up with friends. By lunchtime we’d made it to the SES office at Goulburn where we had lunch and shared the tales of our trip with our good friend Macca. The final leg of our journey home was uneventful and sadly our seven and half week holiday was done. We’d seen so much of remote Australia it’s hard to pick a highlight. We’ve ticked off a number of bucket list items and done it with some great friends. We truly do live in a beautiful country.   

Trip summary 

Total km’s - 17308km 

Longest distance in one day - 972km 

Shortest distance in one day - 92km 

Most expensive fuel - $3.70/ltr 

Cheapest fuel - $1.83/ltr 

Total fuel for trip - 2215ltr

Fuel cost - approx $5k

Max fuel carried when full - 187ltr

Max water carried - 120ltr drinking water 

Total number of nights - 52 

Total number of nights in swag - 44 

Number of nights under the stars (free camping) - 20 

Most expensive campsite - $73 

Number of time zones - 3 

Number of States - 6 

Number of State Corners - 3 

Remotest town visited - Punma or Wingellina

Furthest point from home - Carnarvon 

Most northern point from home - Broome 

Most Southern point from home - Penola 

Most Western point from home - Steep Point 

Best place we stayed - Karajini NP 

Worst place we stayed - Roadside quarry (eatin by midgies) 

Number of window screen chips - 3 

Number of tyres destroyed - 1 

Lowest temperature - minus 1 

Highest temperature - 38 

Number of Deserts crossed - 5 

Bucket list items completed - 5 

Number of Corrugations - 1,946,761 

Average fuel consumption - 13.7ltr/100km 

Number of flies swallowed - 6 

Vehicle damage - Battery, Tyre, Front hub, Windscreen, Solar panel, countless scratches

Purposeful Meandering Around Remote WA - Week 7

Saturday in the Simpson desert and we were reminded how cold this place can be, a cold wind howled between the dunes and with no protection from the vegetation we felt rather cold and exposed. This was day 4 of our crossing and the plan was to be in Birdsville tonight. The QAA line has marked call points starting at No:23 and descending to No:1 which are designed to radio ahead for oncoming traffic and/or to identify your location if you breakdown. With our struggling in 4WD we wondered whether we needed to use one of these as a reference point. As the day progressed the numbers came down, we progressively made it over each dune. At No:3 we had a significant creek crossing to negotiate and with recent rains it was flowing well. Garth made it across and setup as our recovery, but thankfully we made it across the water unaided but needed help up the muddy slope on the exit. Pushing on we finally reached Call point No:1 and what lay ahead was “Big Red”. This ominous 30m high sand dune has multiple tracks up it depending on your skill or vehicle capability. Given the minimal drive from the front hub we took the easiest line and were very grateful to reach the top on our first go. For the next hour we laughed and commiserated with others as they tried their best on the tougher lines, some broke parts others eventually taking an easier line. Big Red marks the end of the Simpson Desert and the last 40km into Birdsville was a pleasure to drive. We quickly setup camp in the van park and basked in our first shower in days. Our evening was spent at the famous Birdsville hotel enjoying a meal and drink.

We’d decided to have a lay-day on Sunday, which was a welcome change. A relaxing start ensued, with a cooked breakfast and no real plans for our day in Birdsville. We caught up on some washing and a few chores around the car. The most exciting thing we did was the 30min walk around the 3 streets in town and refuelling the car. Being Sunday all shops in town shut by midday, so that leaves the pub and the artesian bore for attractions. Around 3pm the rush of new travellers arrive in town and the peace was broken. Our relaxing day was much needed and great for recharging our bodies.

Monday dawned with us rolling by 8:00am. We drove the short distance to the Birdsville Bakery where we met up with Garth and Tom, we all feasted on the local delicacies for breakfast. Once on the road our plan was to travel the Birdsville track but recent rains had closed it for the past week, thankfully we were lucky the track had opened to limited vehicle access. We made our way out of town and soon realised why the track had been closed, water covered the track and surrounding areas in multiple spots. At times we’d be travelling the track at 80km/hr and all of a sudden we’d be in water up to the sills of the car. We quickly learned that best option was straight through the water, going around the outside in the soft mud was dangerous but we had a lot of fun learning the hard way. By lunch time we’d made it to Mungarianne Hotel, this was to be our intended overnight campsite but after some discussion we decided to keep going. Despite the publican telling us the road was better the further we went south, we were still faced with multiple spots where water covered the entire track. By mid-afternoon we arrived in Maree which meant we’d ticked another box of Australian tracks. Continuing south our goal for the night was the historic township of Farina. We stopped along the way to collect some firewood and just before dusk we arrived at Farina, which appeared to be a popular choice as the place packed with travellers. We struggled to find a spot but once we did, we settled in for a night around the fire with a few beverages and a warming port. With our plans for the remainder of our trip taking us in different directions this was our final night as a 2-car convoy.

Tuesday started like any other day, except Farina in winter is a very cold place. Our extremities froze, the dew covered everything and we all struggled to get going. Garth said his goodbyes early as him and Tom had a lot of ground to cover today. We took our time, doing a bit of sightseeing and stopping at the seasonal bakery in Farina for some outback baked bread. Heading southward we quickly drove into rain scrawls and howling winds with the car temp struggled to reach double digits the entire day. We had a few stops as we drove south, at Hawker we inspected the working seismograph located in the petrol station, while in Peterborough we were gripped by steam train fever. Late in the day we found ourselves in Clare, we’d had enough driving for the day so we lashed out and found a cabin for the night as the predicted subzero temps didn’t lend itself to sleeping in a swag. Ahh! the warmth of a heater and comfort of being indoors for the night.

Wednesday started slowly, the comfort of being indoors had us struggling for motivation but eventually we were packed up and on the road again. The cold weather conditions hadn’t eased and for much of the morning we were happy to drive, staying warm while in the car. We’d made our way back towards Renmark where we planned to visit another state corner. MacCabes Corner is another surveyors mismatch. I’m sure the intent was for all 3 borders (NSW/SA/VIC) to align but once again that’s not the case. Around lunchtime we arrived at the nearest parking point to the corner, we then set off on a 2hr return walk to reach our final corner location for this trip. Situated on the banks of the Murray River this tranquil spot is very different to the others we’d visited, but the magnitude of reaching our final corner in Australia was lost because the post was neglected. Once back in Renmark we spent a few dollars attempting to clean the car, the mud had got that thick on the car we were getting dirty simply getting in and out of the car….. it was a sad moment as we washed away some great memories. By nightfall we were setup in a motel ready to watch the deciding “state of origin” game. All new south welshman know how that ended and I’m sure half the motel heard us cheering a great win.

Thursday started with the morning tv shows advising of severe weather coming across the SA state in the coming 24-36hrs, while this didn’t deter us from our plans we were conscious of the pending weather. We spent much of our day driving through various towns in the Murray and Mallee regions of the state. Travelling through the Murray region we watched countless pickers in hundreds of orchards picking oranges and mandarins. A similar scenario was playing out throughout the day with the countless vineyards we drove past. We passed some very popular brand name wineries that we’ve enjoyed. By days end we’d managed to stay one step ahead of the weather but chose a comfortable option for our night in Naracoorte.

Friday sees week 7 coming to an end, we woke to rain and that was the tempo for the day. We headed out to the Naracoorte Caves hoping for something a little more than a guided tour through a cave, but we quickly reminded ourselves how spoilt we are having various roping cave systems so close to home. After a short look around we left disappointed but not surprised. With rain continuing to fall and temps in the low single digits we soon found ourselves in Victoria. The weather wasn’t any better, there was even a severe weather warning for areas near where we were driving. Around lunchtime we stumbled across the site of a story for the ages. In 1864, 3 kids went missing for 9 days. OMG! they were eventually found alive 100km from their home. We both struggled to grasp the magnitude of such an event in todays society….. Moving on we passed through the rural towns of Edenhope, Horsham and Dimboola before deciding the small town of St Arnaud was enough for today. The rain hadn’t let up and the temps remained in the single digits. It was a no-brainer that we opted for the comfort and warmth of something more than the swag for tonight.

7 weeks into our trip and the end is near.

Purposeful Meandering Around Remote WA - Week 6

Saturday was our coldest start for the trip. The desert is a cold but beautiful place in winter. Warakurna had put on an icy 0.3deg as we got out of the swag. There was ice on most things and everything we touched was painfully cold on the hands. Setting off there was an air of excitement to the day ahead, we’d made arrangements and secured permits to Surveyors General Cnr which borders WA/SA/NT. A 2hr drive off the main dirt road took us to a local community called Wingellina where we met our indigenous guide Linda. We transported her to the corner which is a few kms from her residence. Once at the Cnr she explained some of the history over the past 50 years. We grabbed some photos for our memories before dropping our guide back home and we continued our journey east. The Great Central Rd passes through various communities and a transit permit for the journey is only valid for 3 days so there’s not much time for detours. Given the Timezone changes as we crossed back into the NT we made it to Uluṟu right on sunset. We opted to skip the sunset over the rock as it’d been a big day and we still had few errands to do before calling it a night.

Sunday in Yulara was far more pleasant than the previous few mornings. We’ve decided to kill a few days as rain is once again forecast for the Simpson Desert, so we’ve decided to detour via Kings Canyon and the Larapinta Loop Rd around to Alice Springs. The weather gods must have been listening to us because as we headed out of Yulara the desert turned on a pea souper fog making the scenery impossible to see. However by the time we reached Kings Canyon (some 3hrs later) the sun was out and it was a beautiful day. We opted to do the gorge walk through the canyon before heading around to the resort for lunch. With our bellies full we continued along the extremely rough Larapinta Loop to the Finke Gorge NP and a small campground called Palm Valley. We opted to find a nice spot along the river which entailed doing some sand driving, well that didn’t go too well for us as it seems the front drive of our 4WD is broken. Alas we didn’t realise this till I was well n truly bogged in the sand. 2hrs later, thankfully Garth was able to recover us to some more firmer ground. With my pride dented we opted for a simpler spot for the night. I’m now left with some mechanical repairs to work out what’s wrong with the red wagon. Hopefully we can fix it before the Simpson desert crossing.

Monday dawned to another heavy fog blanketing the area. We packed up and made our way around to the Mereenie Loop which runs through the West MacDonnell Ranges. We made numerous stops at the various gorges and lookouts throughout the valley. We walked into a couple of the gorges where swimming was available. While the water looked inviting watching those in the water shiver uncontrollably we decided against it. By mid afternoon we’d made our way into Alice Springs, we took the opportunity to find a safe place to undertake some repairs to the front end of 4WD. An hour or so later I’d diagnosed an issue that wouldn’t be permanently fixed on the side of the road, however a temporary fix has hopefully allowed us to continue into the desert in a few days time. By days end we’d found a woolies where we restocked some fresh food, we also took the opportunity to treat ourselves to the comfort of a motel for the night.

Tuesday started with the realisation we’d just spent the night under a town curfew. Another heavy fog and cool temps blanketed the area. With food and fuel restocked we headed south out of town. The 130km/hr speed limits were tempting but for a change I acted responsibly and stuck to safer speeds. By mid-morning we reached Kulgera where we turned east towards Finke. Our first stop was Lamberts Geographically Centre of Australia, this ticked another item off our bucket list. Pressing on we were soon in Finke where we seen a few parts of town used in the desert race. Continuing towards Mt Dare, Garth took us to the remote place called Duffield, this was an old rail siding habited in the 60’s by his grandfather. Sadly only the ruins and a small section of track remained. You could see the excitement in their faces as they relived their family history. Back on the main track and with the sun setting we arrived at the Mt Dare hotel. Who would have thought to put a pub in the desert, but it works, the place was packed with travellers. We joined the hundred or so other campers as we enjoyed an outback pub meal which concluded a very long day for us.

Wednesday was another chilly morning in the desert. We packed up and were first in line for fuel as the single bowser opened. Thankfully we didn’t need much fuel @ $3:05/ltr. Heading further into central Australia we were soon at the outback oasis of Dalhousie Springs, this thermal pool bubbles out of the earth at approximately 37deg and made for a refreshing swim and change from sitting behind the wheel. As we left Dalhousie Springs you officially enter the Simpson desert, we’d put our sand flags on the cars and lowered our tyre pressures. By lunch time we’d arrived at Purni Bore, this is another artesian bore where the water comes out of the ground at almost 100deg. We had lunch here before continuing our journey over the sand dunes. With 3 routes over the Simpson we decided to take the WAA route and shortly before 3pm we’d found a great spot to camp for the night. Our first night in the Simpson desert was spent relaxing around the fire with a few liquid refreshments.

Some time very early Thursday morning I had a lightbulb moment that I should pull the front wheel hub apart again to see if I could improve on the makeshift repair I’d previously made. Well, at first light that’s what I did, only to find more broken pieces which is never good. After discussing the possibilities with everyone we decided to continue heading across the Simpson. By 9:30 the car was back together, we’d had breakfast and were all packed up. We quickly learned that crossing the Simpson desert is a slow activity, you rise and fall over each dune, you bounce and hop across each corrugation with an average of only 30km/hr. By lunchtime we’d only gone 90km. We shared our lunch spot with a very inquisitive dingo. Careful not to feed it we were soon back on the road. We passed a few vehicles and various adjoining tracks. The thing that surprised us the most was the greenery. Recent rains had freshened up the place, wildflowers bloomed everywhere and made beautiful carpets across the dunes. Late in the day we reached the large salt pan at the end of the WAA line. Given the recent weather and our 4WD issues we opted to walk the route across the salt pan and lucky we did. It appeared not many people had succeeded in crossing the pan. We erred on the side of caution and opted to turn around and return the 30km to the nearest alternative route, this made our already big day that much longer. By nightfall we’d found a suitable place to camp, all of us feeling very exhausted. There was no campfire like the previous night, we literally cooked dinner and hopped into the swag (where I am now, writing todays blog).

Friday marked the end of 6 weeks away, we’ve covered so much ground but there’s still a lot to go. Packing up we checked out the “Lone Gum Tree” before continuing our journey eastward, now on the Rig line. There seemed to be more and more irregular noises coming from the front corner of the 4WD which did nothing to soothe our fears of the hub failing while in the place that we needed it the most. The Rig line proved to be very easy, we had to detour around a wet salt pan but for the most we covered good ground, we even laughed at the moment we got into 4th gear and were doing 60km/hr. Once back on the French line the traffic increased dramatically, the desert is no longer desolate place and on a number of occasions we’d have to stop and let 6 and even 9 car convoys pass by us. The closer we got to Poppels Cnr the steeper the dunes got and with trepidation we had to engage 4-high a few times to make it over, each time the noises coming from the front got worse but we’d top the dune and the adrenaline would ease. About mid afternoon we reached our 2nd border corner for the trip, Poppels Cnr is the junction of the NT/SA/QLD borders and we were both grateful to tick off another bucket list item. Pressing on we both commented how we’d started our day in SA, we ventured 20km north into NT and by stumps today we finished in QLD.

Fingers crossed with 2 weeks left, more outback roads open up and we can get to the places we want to.

Purposeful Meandering Around Remote WA - Week 5

Our week started with us in limbo, Steep Point (Australia’s most western point) is so close but it feels so far away with the roads being closed. We packed up and started heading southwards, at 10am we had to ring ahead to secure our nights camping permit @ Eagle Bluff. We stopped at Hamelin Bay to view the Stromatolites, however the area is still in disrepair after the 2021 cyclone. Sadly we left without getting close enough to view these amazing creatures. Pressing on a bit further we stop at the turn-off to Steep Point where the “Road Closed” sign teases us more than disappoints us. Continuing towards Denham we pulled into our picturesque camp for the night, which is perched high on the sand dunes overlooking the water. Since its first in best dressed we grab a spot and setup camp before heading into Denham for a bit of sightseeing. Unfortunately the wind makes it miserable so we do most of the sightseeing from the comfort of the car. Heading back to camp we position our cars in an attempt to make a wind break, it’s not all that successful but when we can get out of the wind it’s a beautiful spot to sit and do nothing. As the sun drops below the horizon so does the temperature. The ambient temp says 18deg but with the wind chill it feels like 11deg and we find ourselves rugged up like those back home at this time of year. With the wind continuing we all agree the best place to be is in our swags, so it’s an early night for us.

Sunday started early for one of our team as they’re keen to get to Monkey Mia for the dolphin feeding session, for the rest of us it’s a regulation lazy Sunday morning. The wind has died down but there’s certainly a crispness to the morning. With another night planned for this area before roads will be opened we consider moving to more sheltered spot but after a quick recce we decide to stay at our chosen spot. By mid morning we decide to do more sightseeing and head out to Monkey Mia, “oh how this place has changed” since we were here 10 years ago. We choose not to stay long before heading back into Denham. We grab fish n chips and sit by the water when news comes in that the roads to Steep Point have re-opened early. We’re primed to be heading there tomorrow. We do a bit more sightseeing before heading back to camp, the wind has abeited making it a glorious afternoon to sit in the sun overlooking the water. The water is so inviting I wade out 500m in the shallows to explore the marine life. The setting sun over the ocean is postcard perfect and worthy of the few liquid refreshments we enjoy. With the light fading once again so does the temp, but nowhere near as chilly as the previous night or is that the port warming us from the inside? We all enjoy a relaxing night as we discuss and plan our days ahead.

Monday started rather chilly but once the sun was at a decent height we were back to wearing shorts and t-shirts, we’d packed up and were on the road by 8am. There was an air of excitement amongst us as today we’d hopefully be achieving another bucket list item. We made our way back to the Steep Point entrance and surpassed our previous furthest point west. For the next 50km we were pleased to be driving on bitumen, but it was not long before that was replaced with dirt, all be it in good condition. We stopped and paid out NP admission and continue westward. The road quickly became a lot of sand dune driving along formed trails. We made our mandatory stop at the rangers residence before continuing west. Finally we reached the end of the track and the end of the mainland Australia….. We’d made it to “Steep Point”, the most western point on the mainland. We all rejoiced and set about capturing the moment with plenty of photos. Just off the coast whales were breaching as they headed north and the beauty of a nearby natural rock arch was inspected. Back in the cars we headed to the nearby fishing spot called “The Ovens”, here a 50m cliff allows fishermen to drop a line straight down into the water. We watched for a while, alas no one caught anything as the circling sharks which were clearly visible in the water took whatever the fishermen caught. Heading back we stopped a few times to dip our feet in the Indian Ocean or check out the many blowholes that dot this area. There were so many blowholes that often you didn’t see the hole in the rocks, you only heard the rushing air escaping through a crack in the rocks. By last light our epic day had finally been completed, we’d reached the main road and opted to camp in a roadside gravel pit as we were so exhausted. We quickly started a campfire, dispersing with the regular route we grabbed a bottle of port we’d saved for this special occasion and toasted our achievements with travelling companions. As it was, tonight would be our last night with everyone together as Mike was making a beeline for home the next day. We enjoyed the remainder of our night around the fire sharing many laughs and toasts on what a great trip we’d all shared, taking a moment to reflect on our 4th vehicle who had to leave us prematurely.

Tuesday dawned at a frenetic pace, the midges were having a feast on us, we noticed them the previous night but maybe the alcohol had made us numb to them and we weren’t too bothered by them, today however was a different story. We quickly packed up and headed out to the main highway where we sought breakfast at a local roadhouse. We formally said our goodbyes to Mike before jumping in our cars, Mike would soon peel off and start heading for home. The remaining 2 vehicles headed southwards to Geraldton. We quickly checked into a van park and set about catching up on some essential chores. By mid afternoon we headed out to do a bit of sightseeing and geocaching around town. The memorial for the HMAS Sydney which overlooks the town is a stark reminder of those lost at sea. We also took the opportunity to restock some perishable food as we probably won’t see a supermarket for another 10 days or more after leaving Geraldton tomorrow. The evening wizzed by as we spent most of it tidying up within the vehicle.

Wednesday started out rather chilly, a coastal breeze and single digits ensured we quickly packed up and got into the warmth of the car, sadly we started our journey East, yep we’re heading towards home. Late yesterday we received confirmation of our permit to visit Surveyor General Cnr - WA/NT/SA as we head back across central Oz, we’re looking forward to visiting this remote spot. Today was one of those boring (more like repetitious) driving days, we covered lots of territory, the vegetation changed dramatically from lush greens of hills and trees to stained browns of desert dirt and arid bushland, we passed through a few towns that barely appear to survive. The most significant thing we seen was the countless 4 trailer Road Trains (60m long) carting minerals to Geraldton for offshore use. By mid afternoon we reached the small town of Sandstone, once a thriving gold town it barely now has a population of 100 residents. There’s not much to see in town, the pub and the post office have both closed, the General store doesn’t sell fuel anymore but come sunset lots of travellers call it home for the night as it’s halfway between somewhere and nowhere. We did take the opportunity to see the nearby London Bridge rock arch which was impressive.

Thursday started with temps hovering around 4deg, our coldest morning by far. The chilly start ensured we’d packed up quicker than normal. It was another day of repetitious scenery, the only change was the splattering of mines and mullock mountains that are dotted throughout the area. Gold and Nickel are the main minerals mined out here. Mid morning we arrived at the township of Leinster, to our surprise the town is solely supported and run by BHP. There was so much in town for the workers to do it was amazing. Pressing on, we passed through Leonora and Laverton which both dished up some passing showers and wintery conditions. Laverton is the start of the “Great Central Road” or more commonly known as the longest shortcut, it joins Laverton in WA with Winton in QLD. We opted to keep going east as the conditions in Laverton weren’t favourable for camping. Much to our surprise there were still road-trains but they were only carrying essential supplies for remote communities. Trekking down the GCR we’d outrun the showers and on dusk we found a secluded spot to call home for the night. The cold night was made much better as we sat around a campfire.

Friday (today) marks the end of 5 weeks on the road and it was one of our coldest mornings. The thermometer said 7deg with a wind chill factor of a lot less. We were grateful to see the dirt road in very good condition despite recent rains closing the road last week. With good conditions we were able to make good time and by lunch we’d arrived in Warburton where fuel prices were a measly $3:60ltr for diesel and Unleaded….. Thankfully we didn’t need any. Continuing on we both commented how outback Australia must be the biggest “used car lot” this side of Parramatta Rd, there was a car wreck in varying states of repair every kilometre sometimes more along the road. It seems that “if it breaks down, that’s where you leave it”. By late afternoon and with our clocks advanced to central time we pulled up stumps at Warakurna for the night.

Purposeful Meandering Around Remote WA - Week 4

Wow, it’s already week 4 of our remote WA adventure, why do holidays go faster than working days?

Saturday started like all the others except there is no such thing as a sleep-in in a caravan park and the heat of a swag. We tried our best to stay in bed till 7:30 but so much was going on around us. We accomplished the remainder of our washing and finally the car repairs were completed. We headed downtown mid morning and found the local markets in full swing. After a quick look around we spied the Mango vendors, Broome grows a lot of Australia’s mangos so they’re always in plentiful supply. When in Rome, we had to indulge in some mango smoothies. Having been to Broome previously there isn’t many tourist sites that we haven’t seen but we spent a couple of hours meandering around town checking various spots. The one that always gets a laugh out of us is the jail positioned in the Main Street, residents can often be heard yelling at tourists as we gawk from afar. Down at the Port we found a cruise ship had docked for a days sightseeing around Broome. Back in town we spent the afternoon replenishing our food stocks in anticipation of the weeks ahead. As sunset loomed late, we met up with our travelling buddies for a postcard perfect fish n chips on Cable Beach, our backdrop being the Indian Ocean, camels parading past us as the sun set over the horizon. Back in the van park an early night for all of us as tomorrow is moving day.

Sunday, just like clockwork we were back in the swing of packing up and being on the road by 8:00am. We had a full days driving ahead of us as we made our way to Port Hedland, the road is repetitious and the scenery is very mundane. We had 700km ahead of us and my travelling buddy is renown for having a snooze when she’s in the car, true to form Leonie was out within 60min of us starting. Pushing down the highway, just before lunchtime we stopped at a roadhouse. The queue for $2:42ltr diesel were 8 cars long at each bowser, thankfully we had enough fuel and just wanted to stretch our legs. Back on the road it was about 3pm when we arrived in Port Hedland, we grabbed a couple of sites at a caravan park before heading out to do a bit of sightseeing. Port Hedland is like Port Kembla but on steroids, the ships are bigger and twice as many, the trains are 200+ carriages long and BHP looks way bigger. Sadly the whole town is coated in an iron ore dust which doesn’t make it very appealing. We loitered around town checking out a few different sites before meeting up at a vantage point overlooking the tidal flats as today was the first opportunity to witness the “staircase to the moon”. This crazy phenomenon relates to the outgoing tide trapping water in puddles on the sand flats, as the moon rises over the horizon it gives the effect of a natural staircase leading to the moon. 6:46pm with hundreds of people watching, nature did its thing. Personally it wasn’t as good as we’d previously seen in Broome but nonetheless it was a great spectacle. Our long day finished with dinner and a hot shower back in the van park.

Monday and once again we were on the road, one of our team had opted to head to Karratha for some mechanical repairs while the rest of us headed to Karijini NP. Our 3rd car would catch up with us in a few days after his repairs are completed. The road to Karijini is littered with mining sites extracting iron ore, this means loads of 4-trailer road trains to pass and a couple of times we had to stop for oversized heavy haulage trucks. Arriving in Karijini NP around midday we headed to Dales Gorge where we explored a few gorges and swimming holes. The vista of the area we explored was amazing, it had flowing creeks and waterfalls cutting through iron rich canyons. As the day drew to an end we shared a family moment with our son back at home who was celebrating his 19th birthday today. With no accommodation available in the NP we opted to head outside the park boundary where after a short detour off the bitumen we found a great free-camp with only one other camper. It was great to get back to bush camping, a campfire and a million stars watching over us.

It was sad leaving our bush camp on Tuesday morning, we’d really jagged a great spot. With hindsight we’d have made that our base for our three intended nights in Karijini, but when the “no vacancy” sign is posted for any form of NP camping and van parks outside the boundary only have limited sites available “you grab what you can”. Our first stop in Karijini NP today was Hancock Gorge, we’d read so much about Kermit Pool that we headed straight there. This grade-5 walk had us cautious as we weren’t really prepared for hiking but the beauty in photos we’d seen had us compelled to see it. Ladders and a equally steep walking track quickly had us in the gorge, for those of us who do canyoning it was an easy traverse through the gorge. At one spot appropriately named we had to “spider walk” along a tight cliff wall to remain dry. We passed a few people heading out of the gorge but we seemed to be the only ones heading inwards. As we reached Kermit’s Pool the vista of this slotted canyon with its deep reds and browns was amazing and the best part was “we had the place to ourselves”. For way too long we sat and photographed this beautiful spot. Returning to the top via the same route was equally as fun. Back on the plateau we rehydrated before doing it all again, this time down into handrail pool. This canyon wasn’t as spectacular as our morning walk but the pool at the end, appropriately named “handrail pool” has a handrail aiding you around a short drop and into the pool. We took a few photos before clambering out the same route we came in. After lunch we headed to Joffre and Knox gorge, Joffre was very picturesque but was in need of more water so we opted not to transverse it. However at Knox gorge there were signs warning of the risks as the track and gorge were dangerous. Like bees to honey we were drawn to the adventure and it didn’t take long before we dropped very steeply down a goat track of broken ironstone rocks. The decent into the canyon was approx 150m in elevation before it opened out into a progression of rock hopping pools and water traverses. Once again the vista was amazing and photos didn’t do it justice. By late afternoon we’d made it back to the cars and onto Tom Price for accommodation for the night. We quickly setup camp in the local van park before exploring this mining town that never stops.

We woke to our first drops of rain for the trip on Wednesday morning, sadly the forecast didn’t look promising. We slowly packed up but not before a hundred or so pink galahs joined us for breakfast and with a little coaxing I had them eating Rice Bubbles out of my hand. The light rain persisted as we headed around to the western side of Karijini NP, the positive part of the rain was it dampened the dust and we made quick time to Hamersley Gorge. Setting eyes on this place for the first time was amazing, the rain had cleared, the sun was out and it brought out the amazing colours and folds in the rocks. We made our way to the base of the gorge and watched as some brave people took a swim. Back on the road we’d seen everything we wanted in Karijini so started heading towards Carnarvon and straight into heavy rain. Red dirt roads quickly became sloppy slippery mud skate rinks when they’re wet and we had a few wild moments on the muddy roads. Thankfully, after a couple of hours driving we reached the safety of bitumen and my white knuckles could return to normal. Pressing on it was mid afternoon when we reached the Nanutarra Roadhouse, the rain was still falling and with nearly 400km still to Carnarvon we decided this place was perfect for an overnight stay. The rain eased enough that we could setup ensuring we added a few extra tarps in anticipation of a gloomy night. With the roadhouse having 5G coverage we were all set for State of Origin. We took advantage of the roadhouse’s hospitality and liquor licence as we sat glued to an iPad hoping of a Blues win. It’s funny the looks you get when no one else around you knows what SoO is and you’re yelling at an iPad…… Great win for the Blues.

Thursday, an overnight drenching had us packing up wet gear which is never fun. Once on the road heading south it wasn’t long before the rain starts again. Looking either side of the road it was obvious we’d had a lot of rain in the past 12hrs and more was predicted as a weather front blows across the Gascoyne area from the Indian Ocean. Sadly we get an email advising Steep Point roads are closed due to pending weather and hearts sink as potentially another spot is out of our grasp due to the weather….. How can the dry season be so bloody wet this year? Pressing on, water is starting to pool across the floodways but it doesn’t create too much of an issue. By lunchtime we’d arrived in Carnarvon and we’re grateful to see the sun out. We took the opportunity to dry out our camping gear and have a lazy look around town. Around 6pm our 3rd vehicle rendezvous’s with us and we each share the stories of our separate adventures. Garth having to get some vehicle repairs and a days fishing charter while we had fun in Karijini NP.

Friday, we finish week 4 with a lay day in Carnarvon, it’s a good opportunity to catch up on some washing and restock the fridge/freezer. We head into town and as with every town, we try the local bakery….. this one isn’t bad. The morning offers clear warm skies, we check out a few tourist spots before meeting up with everyone at the Carnarvon Space Centre where we learn about the importance this place played in monitoring NASA’s space missions from the other side of the planet. Leaving the space centre we quickly return to camp as more wet weather is rolling in, the local Councils have updated the road closures and our scheduled timings for Steep Point have been put on hold due to the wet weather. We need to wait till Monday to see what happens with roads being re-opened. We spend a lazy afternoon at the van park dodging the rain scrawls. Tonight’s dinner is Garth’s recently caught fish and chips. Week 4 ends with so much uncertainty on how the weather will impact our coming days.

Purposeful Meandering Around remote WA - Week 3

Stop Press: After submitting the blog for week 2, we had a visitor arrive at Georgia Bore late in the afternoon. For the 2nd time on this trip we’ve bumped into Pat Callinan from the 4x4 Adventure Show. 1st time they were filming an episode on outback golf using the mini course @ William Ck, this time it was Georgia Bore and pristine water that comes from within the earth. We chatted for a while about various tracks and then they were off to comfy beds somewhere else.

Week 3 started in a similar vane to the previous days on the “Canning”, we were grateful to beat a 9 vehicle tag-along tour out of camp, thankfully they ate our dust and not vice versa. Before leaving home the track ahead had been blocked due to flooding and we wondered what lie ahead. We passed a few camels as we headed for Well 23. Our progress on a side track to Well 24 was cut by a deep creek that crossed the track, we erred on the side of caution and decided to miss that well. No more than 1km up the track our own progress was halted by our first flood effected water crossing, yours truly removed my socks and shoes and waded through the water. Thankfully the base was firm, the water wasn’t flowing and it was only thigh deep. One by one we traversed the 100m water crossed, given that I was on one side and our car was on the other, Leonie was faced was driving through the water…… let’s say it was a proud hubby moment as she successfully got the car to the other side. Continuing towards Well 25 we knew the track was cut and detours were in place, a clay-pan was still covered in water. We stopped for a few drone photos before continuing down the bypass route. One particular sand dune proved a little difficult to cross but eventually we all made it across. Back on the main track the variations in the road conditions seemed to change every 5min, at one point it was easy undulating dunes doing 40km/hr, next it was rough sharp rocks with speeds of 10km/hr or less were possible or there was were the unrelenting corrugations that needed speeds of 80km/hr to make them possible. Coupled with vegetation changes we had a mixture of everything. Recent controlled fires made the scenery harsh and arid while other parts were so overgrown they provided new pin-striping to the car. Well 26 offered a great memorial to Len Beadell, one of the pioneers of this area. Continuing north we passed Wells 27 and 28 with regularity, both the Wells were abandoned ruins depressions in the ground. Late in the day we were pushing to Well 29, we were leading the convoy which requires the leader to monitor Ch40 for oncoming traffic. We’d made contact with 1 vehicle close to us and a convoy of 5 in the distance. We passed the first vehicle with ease, what no one saw coming was the arrogant vehicle operator who refused to use his radio and contact oncoming traffic. The first we seen of the oncoming vehicle was around a blind corner doing approx’ 30km/hr. I’m sure he seen the whites of my eyes and I was wearing sunglasses. Our evasive action saw us spearing off into some low heath. Thankfully we didn’t sustain any vehicle damage but some expletive language over the radio let him know I wasn’t happy with his actions. By Well 29 we’d had enough for the day but the location offered nothing in the way of camping, thankfully the nearby location of “Thring Rock” wasn’t far away and we headed there for the night. This picturesque location offered amazing sunset vistas from the rocky outcrop high above. With the sun set we listened to the chorus of dingos that sat close by in the shadows of the heath.

Sunday dawned with an equally impressive sunrise, we were soon heading north, we estimated with only 100km till our fuel stop (Well 33) we’d be there around lunchtime. Oh! how the best plans go out the window quickly. We stopped at Well 30 for the obligatory photo only to find, not one but two of us had sustained a puncture. However as we started to get the tyre plugs ready it became apparent we’d both damaged the sidewalls of each tyre making them effectively a throw-away item. I guess that’s part of travelling outback Australia. With the disappointment of the tyre episode behind us, we explored a nearby cave before continuing our northward journey. Once again the track was relentless with more sharp rocks slowing progress and further pin striping being added to the car. One of our vehicles severely damaged a side mirror as a result of how close the vegetation encroached on the track. Just before 3pm we arrived at the outback community of Kunawarritji, this remote location is classed as the halfway point of the CSR and provides vital fuel resupply and some products at a local shop. We opted to head straight for our campsite as being a Sunday the shop wasn’t open till Monday morning. As we setup camp at Well 33 we collectively decided to call a lay-day for Monday. A wise choice considering we’d been on the go since leaving home and the last days had some very intensive driving. With a nearby windmill and bore providing an abundance of water many of our group took the opportunity to have bush showers, however the popularity of the spot meant there was no firewood so for one of the rare occasions on the CSR we had a night without the ambience of a fire, our only backdrop was the millions of stars.

Given Monday was a lay-day the morning kicked off at a much slower pace, we enjoyed our 2 remaining eggs that hadn’t succumb to the corrugations. We spent the morning doing odd jobs that needed catching up on before heading into Kunawarritji for fuel and a few fresh vegetables. The locals were very welcoming and pleased to see us. The same couldn’t be said for our hip pocket after purchasing 150ltr of fuel…… sadly a necessary evil if you want to travel these parts of the country. By early afternoon another convoy of cars had joined our location, its funny how you see no one for days and almost crave conversation but as soon as someone shows up you’re cursing the influx of extra people. Our new visitors came with news of pending road closures further northward due to flooding, we’d known of the flooding at the top end of the CSR but had been given detours around the troublesome spots. They advised also had been closed off and anyone attempting these would be sent fines. A quick team toolbox was called to discuss our options, thankfully we were at a point on the track which gave us options if we chose an alternative route. Continuing north was flaunt with the risk of having to backtrack if we were forced to turn around, exiting to the East and heading for Alice Springs, wasn't something we wanted to consider, we could exit to the west via Marble Bar and onto Broome. They were our options and given the uncertainty of what lied ahead and the risk of having to backtrack 600+ km we decided heading west and leaving the CSR was the safer option. We spent the remainder of the day semi de-rigging our cars, tyre pressures needed to be increased, sand flags were no longer needed and rationing our food was unnecessary now. As dusk fell we took advantage of the plentiful water supply to bask in another shower, yep 2 showers in 2 days is a record in these parts. Once again there was no fire but the stars and moon provided the ambience.

Tuesday was back to our usual early starts, by 8:00am we’d left the CSR and were heading towards Marble Bar along the Gary Junction Hwy. We felt a huge amount of disappointment in not completing the CSR but it gives a great excuse to return in the future. In comparison to the CSR this new road was a highway, but still not up to metro standards. We had 400km of dirt driving ahead of us. We stopped at a few geocaches along the way, thus we spent most of our morning playing catchup with the other cars. We stopped at Lake Dora, which is a dry salt pan probably twice the size of Lake Illawarra or so we thought. After venturing onto the lake, the salt became until weaker and weaker until we broke through into the mud…… enough said! We continued further west, detouring into the small local community of Punmu for ice creams and a refreshing drink. For most parts the dirt road was good and we managed speeds of 100km/hr, we passed a gold and copper mine in the distance but the free phone reception was priceless. Just after lunch and with our night’s destination of Carawine Gorge less than 80km away our convoys day turned to shit. One of our vehicles reported smoke coming from their car. Given our distance apart due to the dust you immediately fear the worse, we raced to their aid with fire extinguishers at the ready, we popped the bonnet to find an oil hose had blown off bathing the engine bay in oil and thus the smoke was burnt oil on hot engine parts, phew! lives weren’t in danger. After fixing the initial issue we were drawn to deeper causes and a possible blown head gasket may be the cause. Our hearts sunk for Team Robo as it’s not a 5min fix when your in remote WA. Salvaging our dilemma wasn’t gonna happen on the side of dusty road. It was left to the old cliche of once again “the Landcruiser had to tow the Patrol (Pootrol) some 150km to Marble Bar. Arriving at last light the towing trip had taken a bit over 3hrs to accomplish. Once in Marble Bar we checked into the van park feeling rather dejected. We had our 1st real shower in over 10 days before heading to the only pub in town for a decent meal and a place where we could explore options for Team Robo.

I’m not really sure any of us slept that well, Marble Bar had delivered on it’s reputation of being the hottest town in Australia. Our winter overnight temp had only dipped to 20deg, making for a rather sticky night in the swag. Having packed up, 3 cars headed into town to do some sightseeing. A town that used to have a population of over 5000 when Gold and Jasper were in plentiful supply is a shadow of that nowadays. Mining trucks rumble past town 24/7 as they carry iron ore from the region. At 10am we picked up one of the Team Robo members who was heading to Port Hedland for a hire car, saying goodbye to the other Robo’s was extremely difficult and sad. Travelling the roads to Port Hedland was an experience in itself, the road supports so much heavy industry in and out of the mining area it was incredible to witness the different resources that are needed to support these huge mines. We seen a road-train truck every 3min. Overtaking these massive machines is a mission, they are 60m (4 trailers and prime-mover) in length which is 60m long travelling at 100km/hr. Once in Port Hedland we bid Robo farewell and wished him luck in whatever happens with their car. We had a quick bite to eat in town before heading north towards Broome along the bitumen. We’d already planned to make our drive to Broome a 2-day journey so approx 150km out of Port Hedland we headed down a dirt track to Cape Keraudren for a night camped beside the ocean, “well it appeared half the caravan owners of Australia had the same idea”. Thankfully we found a spot down a 4WD track where the mobs of caravans had no chance. With our camp setup we went exploring the tidal rock platforms. The sea wildlife trapped in the rocks pools was amazing with octopus, clams, oysters, coral, sea slugs and a variety of fish easily spotted. With this amazing backdrop we enjoyed our first night of this trip watching the sun set over the ocean.

Thursday dawned with a brisk chilly breeze blowing across the cape, we all commented how grateful we were not to be camping on one of the many exposed areas. Packing up it wasn’t long before we were heading north, the winds that blustered around our camp were evident out on the highway and we battled a strong head wind for the remainder of our trip to Broome. The 500kms north were without incident or excitement, the temps hovered in the low 30’s. Just after lunch we arrived in Broome, having been here before we headed straight to our regular caravan park where we managed to jag 3 of the last spots. Once setup, we had a late lunch before heading out to start our list of shopping repairs etc. By 4pm we’d managed to secure most things and had time to drive down onto Cable Beach where we managed to watch the setting sun over the ocean, complete with camels walking past us. Back in the caravan park we finally had time to sit and that’s how we spent the remainder of the evening.

Friday was all about catching up on odd jobs, numerous loads of washing needed to be done, some running repairs to the car and a couple of improvements to the setup. Just after lunch we’d made a significant dint in the list of jobs, enough that we called an early mark for the day. We opted to head out, grabbing some lunch and went to Cable Beach to take in the sights n spectacles of this famous beach. Back at the van park mid afternoon a few of us met around the pool for a refreshing swim. As another winters day in the 30’s comes to an end we hosted the convoy participants at our camp for a relaxing BBQ and socialising.

Week 3 of our travels has come to an end. It’s one we’ll remember for all the wrong reasons. We wish our good friends the “Robo’s” safe travels as they make their way home earlier than expected.

Purposeful Meandering Around remote WA - Week 2

Week 2 started with another reasonably early start, our body clocks hadn’t fully adjusted to the western time zone yet. Carnegie Station had been a welcome relief, a hot shower and another night spent relaxing by the fire. We packed up and were on the road by 8:30am. We had a few hundred kilometres of the Gunbarrel Hwy to complete and mostly it was uneventful. We had the odd cow on the road or a washout that had us hitting the anchors pretty hard. By lunchtime we’d arrived in Wiluna, this marked the end of the Gunbarrel Hwy and the start of the Canning Stock Route. Being in a small rural town on a Sunday did pose its own problem, fuel was scarce and food resupply was limited to one corner shop. We took our time in town savouring our achievement and preparing for the next 20 days of isolation on the Canning Stock Route (CSR). Heading out of town we quickly found ourselves at Well 2, some info boards enlightened us to the grandeur of what lie ahead. A few kms down the track we opted to make camp for the night. Our first night on the CSR was shared with millions of flies until a million stars took over. We celebrated our first night on the CSR with a nice bottle of red and a hearty feast of Butter Chicken.

Public holiday Monday saw us up as the sun rose over the horizon. By 8:30 we were back behind the wheel driving northwards, the track conditions dictated that it was slow going and that was pretty much the ‘norm’ for the day. We only seen 2 other vehicles all day. We stopped at each water well, many of them in ruin but one in particular had been repaired and was in good working order, we were able to winch up a bucket of water from its depths but sadly the water was rank and not worth the temptation. The CSR is renowned for its harshness on vehicles and on multiple occasions we’d be stopping for someone to check a rattle or squeak. For us, it was the recently installed solar panel which had sheared itself free of its mounts. Thankfully we managed to see the issue before it caused too much damage, but our solar panel now sits on one of the others cars until I can repair it in Broome. Throughout the day we’d see 1 or 2 very lonely cows, the occasional lake which given the recent rains, seeing water in these parts I’m sure is rare. For the most part it was a slow demanding day trying our best to avoid sharp relentless rocks that covered the track. By 3:30pm we’d arrived at Windich Springs which was picturesque creek but once again the water was dirty and only worth admiring. For 7 hours driving we managed 127km for the day. Alas our evening campfire was a good time to rest our weary bodies.

Day 3 started with one of the kids spotting a dingo close to camp, which made his day. We were soon on the track heading north again. The track once again offered a variety of fast and slow sections, more slow than fast. Around mid morning we reached Well 5, this had recently been restored to working order by a 4WD group and we relished the novelty of dropping the bucket down and retrieving some fresh water which we used as a refreshing clense. A few kms down the track Well 6 offered a similar experience. Continuing northwards we stopped at Inglebong Hills, it was here that we bumped into 2 tag-along groups offering the CSR experience. We were later to find out that each person paid upward of $8k for the experience. I know what I’ll be doing post retirement - “tour operator”. We chatted to them for a while before climbing the nearby Inglebong hill where we were amazed to find indigenous rock paintings and spectacular views. Just beyond Well 7 our progress was halted by another mechanical issue, we all banded together to soon have the tire changed and we were back on the road. At Well 9 we were pleasantly surprised to find a cyclist riding the CSR, we’d been following his single wonky bike trail for 2 days. We chatted with him for a good 30min learning of his feat to accomplish what we were doing in cars, he was trying to achieve on a bike. Leaving him at Well 9 we went down the track a few k’s before stopping for the night. As many of us did vehicle checks and maintenance, our cyclist friend pedalled past us, vowing that we’d catch up with him again tomorrow. Much of our maintenance evolved around removing spinifex grass from the underside of our cars, thus reducing the risk of our cars catching on fire. Once again we enjoyed a relaxing night around the fire with a million stars as our backdrop.

Our early morning starts have become the norm and Wednesday proved no different. We’d packed up and were on the track earlier than ever, sadly the rough rocks continued, but also that’s all part of the journey. We passed Well 10 and by Well 11 we’d caught up to our friend John the cyclist. He’d been on the road for a full 2 hrs before we started our day, we chatted for a while before bidding him farewell again… I’m sure we’ll see him again soon. The flora of the area was starting to change, we were slowly leaving the pastoral area and moving into the dune/desert section with steep crested dune crossings. The change was welcoming but there was always a rocky section to keep you on your toes. We stopped at Lake Aerodrome and wandered out onto the salt pans to inspect the mirage of water that lied well past where we could walk. Leaving the lake, the red sands and corrugations were relentless, it didn’t matter what speed we tried, in the end nothing worked, we erred on vehicle preservation and bounced along like the wobbly dog on the dash. Detouring to Well 13 for lunch as some unexpected vehicle repairs, the corrugations had vibrated the fridge off its slide resulting in the eggs being scramble. After lunch the distance between wells seemed to lengthen. We stopped at a lookout which was merely 10m higher than where we’d been travelling but it showed the vastness of the area in which we were travelling. By Well 15 we’d had enough for the day and opted to make camp for the night. Our spot had fresh water in the Well affording us the luxury of a shower after 5 days of dusty desert driving. We all commented how refreshed and rewarding the simplicity of a shower can be. As night fell the opportunity to do some night photography of the sky proved amazing.

Thursday dawned with beautiful cloudy skies filled with pinks and purples and temps of a balmy 13deg, we all commented how mild the morning was. To date the CSR has given us beautiful days with temps in the high 20’s. The day started with smooth roads but that didn’t last long, the corrugations were quite severe. We chose to stop and reduce our tyre pressures even further which thankfully improved our comfort and sanity. Heading further north the sand dunes become more prominent and the conditions were more favourable. By lunchtime we’d passed through Well 16 before arriving at the picturesque Durba Springs. We took some time looking around the area, inspecting the indigenous rock art, creek gorges and cliff lines. Returning to our cars it was disappointing to see the place had been overrun by 12 caravans and their tow vehicles who’d taken over the area which for us spoilt the serenity and ambience of the location. We chose to cut our loses and move on, even though the place offered so much. The track conditions improved to be mostly sand driving and an hour up the track we pulled into Well 18 for the night. The water from the artesian well offered a welcome relief with some of us having our second shower in 2 days. The night culminated around the fire with a few ports and plenty of tales about the caravan group from Durba Springs.

Another pre-dawn start, I wish our body clocks would reset itself. Nonetheless our pack up routine was getting well honed and we pulled out of camp around 8:00am. The track wound its way through various sand dunes and birradas lakes. At one point we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn where we stopped for the obligatory photo. Continuing on, Well 19 was simply a depression in the side of a dried salt lake. We opted to bypass Well 20 as fire had destroyed the structure and the Well had filled in over time. Continuing north we ventured out to 3 vantage points overlooking Lake Disappointment. At one of the vantage points we enjoyed spectacular views over the salt lake while having lunch. Following lunch we decided to make a beeline for Georgia Bore, however the track conditions didn’t work in our favour. The corrugations were horrendous, whether we went slow, fast or any other combination there of. To make the best of the road we pushed our vehicles harder than we wanted, we bounced across the corrugations at speeds of greater than 70km/hr. At one point we shared the track with 2 dingos who put on quite the show for us. Late in the day we arrived at Georgia Bore, this popular spot is a crossroad and early exit point on the CSR. Given its popularity we squeezed into a small spot with no room for a fire, thus resulting in an early night and week 2 on the road complete.

So far we’ve done 638km on the CSR.