Sunday, October 20, 2019

Purposeful Meandering Atop Oz - Week 6

Sunday is normally a day of rest for most people, but for us we had a lot going on. Sadly, the girls were flying home today but not before we managed to grab a few essential groceries and cram in a little more sightseeing. Heading downtown the streets were filled with Sunday markets and entertainment, for us though we had a look around the wealthy harbour foreshore and the V8 supercar street circuit. By lunchtime we had the girls at the airport and sad farewells ensued…. Sometimes work gets in the way of a good holiday. For Ethan and I though, we decided to get a few kilometres further south in what was to be a 5-day trip home. Some 300km later we found ourselves in Mackay where we decided to live it up for a night and stayed in a motel. With our accommodation sorted we headed downtown to do some late afternoon sightseeing and caching. Having never been to Mackay before I was keen to see what made Mackay tick, my naïve-ness was soon explained. More than 20 cargo ships were anchored off the coast, Mackay was a huge industrial town. By nightfall we’d grabbed a bit of dinner before enjoying our first night in a real bed in almost 6 weeks.
Monday didn’t start too well for us, we didn’t even clear the carpark before managing to put a dint in the car…. Oops! Pressing southward there wasn’t a lot said in the car as Ethan knew Dad was a little pissed-off, so he erred on the side of caution and said nothing. Pushing along the highway was slow going as there was endless roadworks which seemed to have us making little progress. About lunchtime we detoured off the highway to Yeppoon and Emu Park, it’d been over 30 years since I been in the area. Back then Great Keppel Island was the go-to holiday resort and I was keen to look around. Apparently nowadays Great Keppel is a ghost town, but the mainland coastal town are booming. After enjoying some time out on the coast we moved further south but once again roadworks slowed our progress. Late in the day we found a great free-camp on the banks of the Calliope River which we shared with some like-minded campers.
Tuesday and another day of slow highway driving loomed, we weren’t keen for that, so we headed out towards the coast and down to Bundaberg via Agnes Waters. By mid-morning we’d made it to Bundaberg where we headed straight to the Bundaberg Rum distillery and the Bundaberg soft drink factories where we enjoyed a tour of the factories. Continuing south we went through Childers, Hervey Bay, Maryborough and Gympie before spending a night at Leonie’s brothers place in Noosa. Catching up with family with a few bourbons was a great way to unwind after a couple of days of driving.
Wednesday started early for us as our overnight hosts had to leave early for work so we hit the road at the same time. We used the morning for a bit of sightseeing and caching around Caloundra and Caboolture before skirting south around the city of Brisbane. We made sure to time our run past Yatala Pies so we could stop for the perfect lunch feast - yum yum! Back on the road and we’d soon passed the Gold Coast and the QLD/NSW border which was a sad reminder that our holiday was coming to an end. Before getting to my parent’s place, we detoured into Byron Bay where we checked out the most eastern point of Australia, thus seeing 2 extremities of Australia in the 1 trip. After a brief stop at Byron we continued the last few kms to my parent’s house where we had a 2-night stopover. Thursday rolled into Friday as we had a day around my parent’s home catching up with family and sharing the excitement of our trip to the Cape.

Friday dawned early as we wanted to put as many km’s behind us before the roadworks of the far north coast really slowed our progress. By breakfast time we’d made it to Coffs Harbour McDonalds where a dose of coffee and a bite to eat hit the spot. Back on the road and our next stop was the once sleepy hollow of South West Rocks, well last time I visited it was. Nowadays it’s a rather busy holiday location and we had a brief catch-up with friends who were enjoying a break. Continuing southward we made one further detour into Raymond Terrace before hitting the Friday afternoon Sydney peak-hour traffic. For the next 3 hours we crawled along the Sydney arterials till we got south of Campbelltown where once again we could speed up to the speed limit. Just before 6pm, in what had turned out to be a 12-hour journey we finally arrived home.
After 6 weeks and some 9600km later we’d made it to the tip of Cape York and back home again. What an amazing adventure! 

Tuesday, October 15, 2019

Purposeful Meandering Atop Oz - Week 5


Our penultimate week started with us so close to Cairns that by the end of Sunday we’d be back in civilisation watching the NRL grand-final, but to get to that point we had to undertake our last dirt-road adventure. Waking Sunday morning there was a bit of indecision to whether we’d stay another night or not, after confirming some accommodation in Cairns we all packed up and headed towards Cairns. Our first stop was the picturesque Bloomfield Falls before we started down the Bloomfield Track. The track southward was very easy compared to those of past weeks, the highlight for us was seeing a Cassowary in the wild. All too soon we’d finished the Bloomfield Track and where back at the Daintree River ferry crossing. A short time later we were in Port Douglas checking out the local markets again and grabbing a bite to eat. By mid-afternoon we’d checked into a caravan park in Cairns. We quickly made ourselves at home in the camp kitchen where we ordered in pizzas for Sikky’s birthday. Having seen no TV for weeks settling in to watch the NRL grand-final. 
Monday was a public holiday in QLD, so we took the opportunity to have a lazy start to the day. For many of us, vehicle repairs would have to wait another day as very little was open. The first priority was to catch up on the mountain of washing that needed to be done, next was the chance to grab some much-needed fresh groceries followed by some further sightseeing around Cairns. Returning to the caravan park the heat ensured it wasn’t long before we were trying one of the many pools on offer in the van park. This park had so much to offer for the kids, it seemed to be hours before we seen them again. There were jumping pillows, water-slides, so many pools, basketball and tennis courts and then there was the “adults only” relaxation spa that we seemed to gravitate towards. It worked a treat in getting rid of our aches and pains, oh and some of the ground in red dust that our bodies had collected. No one seemed to know or care but happy-hour kicked in early and we spent the remaining hours of Monday enjoying a few beverages.
Tuesday was fix it day, after another slow start to the day many of us headed out to the four corners of Cairns seeking parts and repairs to our cars. For us, we were booked in for a wheel alignment, so dropping the girls off for a bit of retail therapy Ethan and I went and got the car looked at. All too soon we were done and had met up with the girls again. We grabbed a bite of lunch before heading out to do some more sightseeing. We headed out to the Cairns hinterland where we found a place called Crystal Cascades. This picturesque freshwater stream flowed over shallow rapids, down waterfalls and through deep rock pools. We spent a few hours jumping from one swimming hole to another, there was plenty of fish and the occasional turtle to see while we swam with them. Returning to the van park it didn’t take long before we were back in the refreshing pool as we did our best to beat the hot weather. By nightfall we’d gathered in the camp-kitchen where we spent much of the night feasting on fresh fruit and desserts we’d all made. It was pretty much our last night we’d all be together before our group started to disseminate and head our own ways home. For us however, we had another full day in Cairns.
Wednesday started with goodbyes as our group started to go their own way, for us though it was to be a day filled with fun and excitement as we headed to the Great barrier Reef. This natural wonder a “must do” for us and by early morning we were on a big catamaran heading to the outer reef. The 90min cruise didn’t feel long and soon enough we were donning our snorkelling gear and jumping into the turquoise waters. Watching the expression on our kids faces as they explored the numerous pockets of coloured coral was priceless. At every turn there was something new for us to see, Sam was the first to see a Nemo fish while we all seen lots of starfish and sea cucumbers on the ocean floor. All too quickly we were tucking into a hearty lunch before we once again returned to the water where tried the underwater observatory and glass-bottom boat. With our reef adventure coming to an end we had one last swim before the kids got to handle some of the sea creatures the marine biologist had collected for “show-n-tell”. Returning to the Cairns marina we all commented on what a great day we’d had on the reef but thought Ningaloo Reef in WA is just as nice. Back at the caravan park our day’s adventure soon caught up with us and after a relaxing meal it was time for an early night to bed.
Thursday was moving day for us. We bid farewell to the last of our group before heading south down the Bruce Highway. We didn’t get too far down the road before we detoured into Babinda Boulders where we changed to our swimmers in anticipation of a refreshing swim. For Leonie and Sam it was certainly refreshing, to the point it was freezing bloody cold. Ethan and I seen the looks on their faces, their teeth chattering and quickly back-peddled to high ground where we stayed nice and dry. After bit more exploring of the boulders we headed back into Babinda where we enjoyed a lovely meal of pies and pastries from the local bakery, Leonie even commenting that the pies were on par with Yatala Pies. Pushing on we passed through Innisfail and the endless fields of sugarcane and bananas before arriving at Paronella Park. This concrete jungle built in 1930’s by one man is amazing. Built beside a waterfall, Jose` Paronella had the foresight to generate electricity years ahead its time, he built 2 castles and numerous other out-houses on the property all for the enjoyment of others. For us, we spent much of the afternoon exploring the park and learning the incredible history of the parkland. By evening we were pleasantly surprised to be joined by another family from our group who’d also come to the park. Together we enjoyed the evening spectacular as the park is transformed with lights and music. A fitting way to end a beautiful day.
Friday and we had one final part of Paronella Park to explore before getting on the road. Jose`s water turbine still generates electricity to this day, enough to supply the park all its needs plus some back into the grid. Back on the road we headed across to the coast where we stopped at Mission Beach for a look around this quaint coastal hollow and the views across to Dunk Island. Continuing southward we stopped at Tully and Cardwell where there was a lot of mixed emotions for me, as I’d been to these towns only 24 hours after cyclone Yasi and the resultant devastation caused by it. Back then the towns looked like a war zone whereas today Tully is once again a thriving sugar mill town, Cardwell is a picturesque seaside town where we enjoyed lunch today. I did notice however there were a few vacant blocks of land in Cardwell where houses had once stood, while Hinchinbrook Marina seems to have not recovered after the mass devastation. Continuing a further few hours and we found ourselves in Townsville where we quickly found some accommodation before doing some late afternoon exploring along the Strand. We spent our evening relaxing and doing a whole lot of nothing as the temps were still in the high twenties well after dark.
Saturday dawned for us with an air of sadness as today was the last whole day we’d spend together as a family before the girls had to fly home. We had a lazy start to the morning, the only thing getting us out of bed was the burning heat on our swags. We enjoyed a hearty breakfast before heading out to do some sightseeing. Townsville is flanked by huge pink granite hills and we soon found ourselves exploring one of these hills which is the home to the “rich and famous”. Many of them sharing million-dollar views in equally expensive houses. From there we headed up Townsville’s major attraction. Castle Hill (mountain) towers some 300m above the city and is the centrepoint to the town with its 360deg views, we spent plenty of time up there admiring the spectacular views. To the west we’d spied an even higher mountain range, so 30min later we stood atop Mt Stuart which offered even broader views of the township and surrounding areas. Once back in town and now mid-afternoon we headed to the Strand where we enjoyed a beautiful family walk along the esplanade watching likeminded people enjoy picnics, swimming or relaxing in the sun as Townsville baked mid thirty deg temps. As dinner approached and with our holidays all-butt over, we headed to the Cowboys Leagues club to celebrate a great holiday.
Why do holidays seem to go so fast!

Monday, October 7, 2019

Purposeful Meandering Atop Oz - Week 4


Week 4 started with purpose, in fact it was the whole purpose of our trip, to make it to the most northern tip of mainland Australia. We left the van park by 9am and made our way northwards the some 40km towards the tip. Our first stop was the Croc Tent, this top-end souvenir oasis has everything relating to the cape and we stocked up. Heading further north the notable change was the landscape, the last few days had been bushland, but now it was very tropical. Soon enough we were in the tip carpark where we had some 400m walk ahead of us. After the short rocky walk, we’d made it to the tip of Australia. We’d achieved another item on our bucket list. We sat and rejoiced in the moment for a while, took a heap of photos, watched a huge turtle float by before heading back to our cars. From the tip we headed around to Somerset and the 5 beaches 4WD trek. It was at this point a few of our group opted to stay in the area for the night while the rest of us continued exploring the coast. For us, we headed back towards Bamaga where we found a number of WWII plane wrecks scattered in the bushland. With our day culminated, we explored a few local aboriginal communities before returning to the van park. By night fall we had dinner in the park restaurant basking in the nights’ special of ‘fish-n-chips’ on the beach.
Monday was moving day, but not before we experienced our heaviest rain of the trip, leaving us to pack up in the rain. We grabbed a few last-minute supplies and fuel in town, met up with the rest of our group before pushing south to the Jardine River ferry. This 6-car ferry traverses the narrow river crossing regularly and we were soon on the southern side. Continuing southward the corrugations on the Peninsula Development Road (PDR) were true to form, the car was literally shaking itself to pieces as we made our way the some 120km to the next destination of Captain Billys Landing. Arriving at our campsite sadly the southeast winds made the area less than attractive, but we made it work for us settling up the cars to form a nice wind-break. One of our members decided to head to Weipa to seek medical aid for an infected took foot. For the rest of us our day we relaxed by the beach, strolled along the foreshore, explored the many caves which become accessible at low tide, drove along the sand. For those keen fishermen amongst the group they were pleased to finally catch some fish while the kids took delight in building little homes for the numerous hermit crabs they’d found. As darkness came the wind persisted stopping us from having a campfire but we still took the opportunity to celebrate a group members birthday with cake.
Tuesday saw us moving again. Retracing our steps back to the PDR we continued further south over countless corrugations and dust to the Bramwell Roadhouse, returning to this place felt like we’d completed a big loop as we’d been here a week or so earlier. The need to refuel at $2.05/ltr hurt but was necessary if we wanted to continue seeing this amazing area. Pressing on we’d soon arrived at the Old Morten Telegraph Station which in its day was an integral link in communications heading north/south using Morse Code. We enjoyed the homestead hospitality while checking out the history and photos of recent floods that devastated the area. A short distance down the track we turned off for our next adventure, the "Frenchman’s Track" which in itself is an adventure but in reality, is a shortcut to Chilli Beach. The track, at times was very rough with us soon dropping down the steep descent into the Wenlock River where we took advantage of the perfect river conditions to swim and play for the next hour. Back on the track we encountered a couple more waterholes and steep climbs before reaching the Pascoe River. It was here the recent wet season had caused significant track damage resulting in the track being close up until recently. The entry and exit to the river were steep and rough with the water level in the river being up towards the bonnet level again. We were soon across safely and, on our way. Too our surprise our injured member was waiting for a few kilometres down the road, having had a 2cm palm spike removed from his foot. With time getting away from us after what was a big day we eventually arrived at Chilli Beach. Sadly the winds had persisted along the coast but camping in a little more protected area we were able to enjoy the spoils of a campfire in the night.
Wednesday was all about chilling at Chilli beach, we had a bit of sleep-in before having morning coffee on the beach. Most of us spent the morning either doing minor maintenance jobs, relaxing by the camp or on the beach. The kids had taken a few shovels down to the beach and started digging out a beach fire pit for us, while a few adults tried our luck getting coconuts from the countless palm trees that littered the beach, we even attempted to scale the trees Fijian style. After lunch and with the tide running out we took the kids for a bit of beach driving before going out to explore the surrounding area. We found a local selling cooked prawns so we grabbed some before returning to camp. Regrettably the wind had not abated but that didn’t stop us from spending a couple of hours around our beach firepit devouring prawns and bourbon on the beach. After dinner we enjoyed another campfire, telling tales, sipping port and reminiscing at what had been a lovely day at Chilli Beach.
Thursday saw us on the road again heading back towards the PDR, but not before we detoured via the aboriginal community of Lockhart River, this was certainly an interesting excursion highlighting the multicultural lifestyle of others. The road heading back to the PDR was good and we made good time and speed along the dirt road, however as we re-grouped at the PDR road junction car troubles struck the group. One car simply wouldn’t re-start again, after a bit of diagnosing we decided to push-start it and head into the Archer River Roadhouse for further investigation. We opted to have lunch at the roadhouse and while sitting at lunch we got to witness farm life at its rawest, sadly a lame bull had to be put down in eye-shot of the roadhouse. With a band-aid fix done on the car and a swim in the nearby river we kept motoring south towards Coen. Once in Coen we grabbed some fuel and basic supplies before having a drink at the local. We’d spied a good campsite as we drove into town so after enjoying refreshments we headed out to camp by the river. Once setup the kids swam, the guys threw a line in the river before we enjoyed jaffles in the campfire.
Friday dawned with beautiful sunny views over the river. After packing up we were on the road again. It was some 250km to Laura but who would have known that shortish distance would take us most of the day. The PDR was as rough as we’d experienced. Once again, the corrugations generated noises in the car which had us 2nd guessing whether the car was self-destructing. For some of the group car issues were a reality, at Musgrave we pulled an alternator out of one car while another car continued to have starter motor issues. Our roadside mechanical repairs took us up till lunchtime. After lunch we were back on the road heading south, the PDR was still an adventure, the bull dust coupled with corrugations and oncoming road-trains had us at reduced speeds much of the time. Just when we thought it’d be an easy run into Laura car problems presented themselves again. The car with starter motor issues yesterday simply conked out mid-road. Further investigations and a short tow to the nearest roadhouse saw us doing more repairs. By late afternoon we’d finally arrived in Laura having done that 250km, sadly another car had succumbed to car troubles, the PDR had claimed another casualty with a car battery rattled itself to pieces and dropped a cell. With it late in the day we wanted to press on, starting our next offroad adventure along the Old Coach Rd towards the Palmer Goldfields. With dusk nearing we got a couple of hours down this renowned rough track before finding a suitable spot to camp for the night. As we setup camp we reflected on how fun the track had been so-far. The terrain was challenging, technical in spots and at various times there were great views across the ranges. After a long day in the saddle it was so good to sit and relax by the fire, watching the stars and the serenity of being in the bush.
Saturday had us excited about what the Old Coach Rd had install for us, as the morning unfolded the track didn’t disappoint. There were steep rocky climbs, creek washouts, wombat holes that had us on 2 wheels at times, off chamber sections that had us flipping ‘n’ flopping through weird angles plus more of the great scenery. The closer we got to Maytown the remnants of yesteryears gold lifestyle were unveiled. We found old stampers, boilers and abandon mineshafts scattered across the countryside. Coupled with the old, was the new, we found a handful of operating mines where people were hard at it trying to make their riches from the minerals which lie beneath. Once in the historic township of Maytown the size of "what once was" hit home. Only the cobbled gutters and a few house piers remained but once where a building stood now a plaque identified the numerous shops and multiple pubs that stood on site back in the 1880’s when over 18000 people lived in Maytown. We had lunch at the nearby Palmer River before heading towards our next campsite. The road out of Maytown weaved its way over the ranges and at times felt like we were riding a rollercoaster as it twisted and turned. The day wasn’t without more car issues but nothing that couldn’t be fixed beside the dirt road. By mid-afternoon we’d reached a main bitumen road, the sensation of driving on a smooth black road felt strange after so many kilometres on dirt. Late in the day we arrived back in Bloomfield, a familiar campground for us as we’d stayed here on our way to the tip. Week 4 had concluded with some amazing highs, a few car problems for us to deal with once we were back in Cairns and a whole lot of dust and corrugations behind us.

Sunday, September 29, 2019

Purposeful Meandering Atop Oz - Week 3

Sunday of week 3 started with a few of us booked into the local Weipa mine tour. The 3½ hr tour was very interesting and informative, we learned so much about the Weipa township, the impact Rio Tinto has played on Weipa, followed by look over the mining process of Bauxite. Returning to camp, the rest of my family had enjoyed a lazy morning catching up on some much-needed washing. After lunch we went out and did some further exploring. It was strange to see a town that actually closes down on Sundays. We checked out the ship loading facilities, the longest single lane bridge in Australia before returning to at some of the miner’s facilities. By days end we enjoyed a refreshing swim in the van park pool after a very hot 34deg day. Once again, the sun setting over the ocean was spectacular.
Monday dawned with us decided to stay another night at Weipa, instead of us packing up and heading out the peninsula, a decision that we’d later regret. By mid-morning we headed towards Mapoon to an Aboriginal community located on the Gulf of Carpentaria. After charging out the sights of the town we explored a few offshoots before driving to the beach oasis of the Pennefather River. We immediately regretted our decision to stay another night in Weipa, the beach setting where we enjoyed lunch was a beautiful spot and worthy of an overnight stay. We witnessed some turtle nests on the beach and an enjoyable swim in the shallows of the gulf. Pushing on, we wanted to see some old plane wrecks so we started trekking down the beach but with most of us pushing hard along the sand we opted pull the pin as some of our cars were overheating. Back in Weipa we enjoyed the last few hours of daylight with an extended happy-hour.
Tuesday was moving day, but not before we all got some last-minute supplies from Woolworths. Leaving the civilisation of Weipa we were quickly back on the dusty dirt roads, we managed a detour past the Botavia Downs cattle station before joining back on to the Development Road northbound. The main north/south road soon showed its true colours as parts of the road were heavily corrugated. We flew past a landmarks commenting that we’d seen them again on our return southwards. Just after lunch we arrived at Bramwell Station which was to be our overnight campsite. This working cattle station of over 300,000 acres opens its doors for travellers as a convenient rest stop offering dinner and showers. After setting up camp we headed to the beginning of the Old Telegraph track where we spent a few hours exploring the next days, options. Once back at camp we spent the remainder of the afternoon relaxing around the cattle station. As night fell some of our group enjoyed a cattle station meal and entertainment while others mingled around our camp.
Reflecting on Wednesday, to date it’s been the best day of our adventure so far. The Old Telegraph track offered so much, it had a bit of everything for everyone. Starting at Bramwell Roadhouse we trekked along the single lane dusty track till we’d come across creek crossing. Dry or wet everyone of them was an adrenalin rush. Palm Creek had one of the steepest exits of the day and when 2 of the smallest cars in the group were able to climb the steep wall we had bragging rights over those bigger cars that struggled. After a few more dry crossings we e upon Delhunty River where we spent some time cooling off in the cool waters. Pushing further north there were numerous other crossings that challenged us all before we arrived at the infamous Gunshot. Those in the know have all heard of this place and the reputation it has amongst those who tackle the OTT. For 2 of our group the sheer rock face drop into the creek was in their sights. The near vertical wall requires an element of nerve because for much of the drop you have no control over the speed of entry but our 2 cars made it down successfully while the rest of us negotiated the challenging deeper water crossing. Pushing on there were more challenging creek crossings before we made it to Fruit Bat Falls. This spectacular low level falls spans a 50m wide river with plenty of opportunity for us to cool off in the water below the falls or directly under the thumping water. With more OTT to cover before days end we reluctantly pushed on. The Scrubby creek crossing offered one last highlight before we arrived at Elliot falls campground for our 2-night stay. After setting up in our respective campsites we enjoyed the atmosphere and dinner cooked on the open fire.
Thursday dawned early as I headed back the kilometres to Fruit Bat falls to capture the first light on the falls, unfortunately the light wasn’t spectacular but the early morning swim under the falls was beautiful. Returning to camp it wasn’t surprising to see the rest of my family were still in bed enjoying a lazy sleep-in. After a hearty breakfast we headed to the nearby waterfalls of Elliot and Twin falls where we jumped from the adjoining rock walls that dotted the waterfalls, we rumbled in the white-water before enjoying our float downstream on our pool noodles. The hectic pace and energy of the morning was too much for some us as a few of us needed a nana nap before returning later in the day for some more fun in the waterfalls. Our day ended with the whole group floating the creeks again, basking in what had been a beautiful day playing natures best natural features. As night fell we sat around the campfire toasting marshmallows, sipping port and reminiscing on how fun the past few days had been.
Friday was all about finishing the second half of the OTT, with most of the track done we only had 40km to go, but as the day unfolded it would be one of high impact. The last half dozen creek crossings were the most challenging and deepest of the whole Telegraph track. Steep drop-offs into the creeks, wombat holes that had us grabbing big air at times and water lapping at the bonnet were all too common. As the track neared its an end we had Logans and Nolans crossing to complete. Logans crossing depth was deep enough that we were waist deep in water as we inspected the right line to take, thankfully we all managed to negotiating creek successfully. Our last crossing was the treacherous Nolans Crossing. Rumour had that people count the number of times a car is drowned in the deep long crossing. Sure, enough as we arrived on the southern bank a plethora of people looked on from the northern bank, it felt like lambs to the slaughter. There were multiple lines to take across the creek, all with their own perils. Plenty of onlookers had an opinion of what line to take, of course they had the presence of hindsight as they sat and waited for our fate to unfold. Eventually we all picked our preferred line, we aired down our tyres and pre-prepared our cars with extra snatch straps in the event of a recovery. Our 2 biggest vehicles made it across easily, our 3rd vehicle wasn’t so lucky and had to be recovered. For us we chose a line that was deep but short and were lucky to drive out the other side without taking any water onboard. Thankfully the rest of our group also made it to the other side without taking on any water. However, the news wasn’t all good, our 3rd vehicle that had to be recovered had taken in a big gulp of water into the engine. We spent the following couple of hours pulling engine parts off trying to clear water from critical parts. Eventually with us not having a lot of success out in the bush we opted to tow the car 30km into Seisia where we were able to borrow some tools from a local mechanic and perfect the repairs needed. With daylight fading to hear the purr of a diesel start-up was music to our ears. Our evening culminated with an easy dinner and some NRL via the iphone.
Our last day of week 3 (Saturday) started very early for all of us, we were off to Thursday Island (TI) on the 7:45 ferry. Waiting at the dock we were enthralled by the locals as they fished from the high pier, some by regular fishing rods while a few used 6m hand spears very successfully. Our ferry weaved its way through the countless islands that litter the cape coastline and 80min later we were docked at Thursday Island. We’d arranged a local tour guide to show us around the small island which is steeped in war history. By lunch time we’d seen pretty much all of the island and were sitting Australia’s most northern pub for a counter lunch. Following lunch, we spent our last few hours on TI looking around the cultural centre and sheltering in the shade as the high temps and high humidity was getting a bit too much. Returning to the mainland many of the passengers grabbed 40 winks as the ferry rocked n rolled in the wind swell chop. By late afternoon we’d grabbed a few groceries to tie us over till our next major town. It was then time to relax as happy-hour and a spectacular sunset concluded a beautiful week in Cape York.

Sunday, September 22, 2019

Purposeful Meandering Atop Oz - Week 2



You might say that week 2 was the official start of our trek to the Cape, even though we’d already covered some 280km already. All parties had a arrived in Cairns and the excitement had built nicely for what lie ahead.

We chose to be on the road by 9am on Sunday morning but a few had to get last minutes supplies etc so we assembled a few kilometres north of cairns for a team photo before hitting the bitumen in a northerly direction. Our first stop was the tourist town of Port Douglas. Having read and heard so much about this place it was nice t finally see it for ourselves. The resorts line the road into town before finding a bustling commercial district and the Sunday market, which was in full swing. We spent the next hour or so checking out the local culture before heading north again. We passed through the town of Mossman where every farmer was hard at work harvesting the sugar cane. For us though we kept going to the Daintree River where a short ferry ride transported cars and people to the otherside. Continuing north we quickly found ourselves in the lust Daintree Rainforest as the road snaked its way up down and around the mountains. By late afternoon we’d arrived at Cape Tribulation which was as far northward as we’d be going on this particular road. After setting up camp, we took in the splendour of the tropical coastline before enjoying a relaxing swim in the pool and a night filled with fun and laughter.

Monday started very early for some us as a shower of rain caught many of us with gear left out overnight. By 9am we were back on the road again as we retraced our journey back to the Daintree River and the short ferry ride. Our goal for the day was to tackle the infamous Creb track which until recently had been closed due to the wet season making parts of the track impassable. Our first challenge was getting across the river, which we all managed to do safely. From that point onwards the track undulated up and down the sides of mountains, across creeks, through farmland and rainforest. At one point we passed an uncontrolled fire that was burning beside the track before we scaled the side of a mountain literally going straight up to a spectacular lookout and our lunch spot for the day. Continuing onwards we soon arrived at Roar meg Falls, which was to be our overnight camp spot but it didn’t look ‘that’ so after enjoying a swim in the nearby cascades we pushed on. Surprisingly, by late afternoon we’d completed the 70km Creb Track wondering why so much hype surrounded the track, it was certainly one of those times when expectation was far greater than reality. With the Creb completed we drove to the small town of Bloomfield where we were welcomed at a lovely bush camp property for the night.
Tuesday morning and we checked a few local sights around Bloomfield before heading out of town, Sam chose to drive as we headed to the next attraction. Lions Den is remote pub which offers some worldly character in the middle of nowhere. Everywhere you look memorabilia lines the walls of those who’ve stopped for a drink, including us. Pressing on it was only a short drive to Cooktown where we stopped for lunch and some local sightseeing. With Cooktown not offering too many attractions a few of our group decided to head north to the remote campsite of Elim Beach. We opted to stay in Cooktown looking at the sights in a little more detail. The Captain Cook museum offered a good insight to the years when Cook first landed in the area. With the kids wanting a swim and temp in the high twenties we checked into a local caravan park for the night.
Wednesday dawned very early due to the birdlife but we had a lazy start to the morning before heading towards Elim beach, we stopped at Endeavour Falls and had a look through the Aboriginal community of Hope Vale before arriving at the beach camp of Elim Beach where we re-united with the rest of our group. Elim beach is known for its coloured sands and postcard scenery. We spent the remainder of the morning lazing around the beach, trying our hand at fishing and mud crabbing while keeping an eye out for crocodiles that frequent the area. By mid-afternoon we headed out for some beach driving to Cape Bedford where we found a shipwreck and turtles swimming nearby. From one beach we ventured across to another beach where the coloured sands offered some amazing colours. We returned to camp in time to enjoy the spoils of another happy-hour and a relaxing evening in a beach setting.
Thursday morning and it was a little sad to the leave the picturesque Elim Beach but there was a lot more to see. After a short period of time were experiencing our first major dirt roads for the trip and it was pleasing to see them in good condition, and we were able to make good time along them. A few of us cooled off at Isabella Falls before another stop at Lake Emma and the old Laura Homestead, which was a stark reminder of yesteryear. As we’d made good time along the dirt roads we kept pushing on Kalpowar, which was to be our intended camping spot, but we’d arrived for a late lunch. Kalpowar was a picturesque camping spot with a deep-water river crossing on the Normanby River. We decided we’d camp somewhere along the river and after some misguided directions we finally found a remote campsite to spend the night. For the first time, as a group we enjoyed the spoils of a campfire and some liquid beverages.
Friday saw us doing a lot more dirt driving, some slow through single lane often unused tracks while at other times we were belting along on wide open dirt highways. We drove to the roadhouse at Musgrave where fuel and ice-creams were on the menu. Heading back out into the bush we came across a few tricky creek crossings before making it to Port Stewart where we enjoyed lunch by the water’s edge. Back on the dirt road we headed inland to the small weathered township of Coen on the development road. Comically as we turned onto the highway the local Police stopped us all for a random RBT, the funny part being we left the RBT and went straight to the local S-exchange Hotel for a beverage. With the temp nudging 32deg we opted for the comfort of our air-conditioned vehicles and the 65km we had to our night’s destination. By late afternoon we’d arrived at the Archer Roadhouse where we setup camp for the camp. Having had 2 days in the dusty outback the roadhouse showers felt so good. Our night culminated with us all enjoying the renowned Archer Burgers before retiring for an early night.
Saturday dawned early as the sniff of rain and a few drops had us packing up in record time. We left Archer Roadhouse at staggered times as it wasn’t long before we were back on the corrugated development road and we weren’t far down the road when the rain showers blew across, all be it briefly and not enough to settle the dust. The road to Weipa was a mixture of bitumen and corrugated dirt which for most of the time was achievable at 90+km/hr. By late morning we’d arrived in the mining town of Weipa, which is known for its mining and exporting of bauxite. We quickly checked into the one caravan park in town where we were given a spectacular vista from our campsite. As Weipa is one of the last chances to stock up on groceries we did a big shop at the local woollies before catching up on some washing and a relaxing by the pool. Our day ended with an happy-hour a spectacular sunset over the water. Its not very often you get to see a Queensland sunset over the water.

Week 2 and we’ve done almost 4000km and to date the cape hasn’t disappointed us. Next week we take on the demanding Old telegraph track.

Monday, September 16, 2019

Purposeful Meandering Atop Oz - Week 1


After months of planning our Cape York trip, the day had finally come for us to start our trek northward. Leaving the blustery winds of the Illawarra behind felt right but leaving half the family behind didn’t feel good but knowing the girls would be joining us in a weeks’ time was reassuring.
Heading north through Sydney and towards Singleton the windstorm showed no letting up, at times the wind gusts were strong enough to move us across the road and tree branches often littered the roadside. Continuing north, we were hoping the wind would ease as we headed further away from the coast, but to no avail. By the time we reached Gunnedah the wind had eased a little but so had the temperatures, this was something that we weren’t prepared for. As it was only mid-afternoon, we decided to keep pushing north. By the time we reached Boggabri the sun was setting and we’d had enough for our first day so pulled into the showground where we took shelter from the wind in one of the sheds.
By Monday morning the wind had died off, but the temperature was in the low single digits and when you pack for a trip to the Cape the last thing you pack is winter woolies, so we quickly packed up taking shelter and in the car. Pressing northwards, it wasn’t long before the wind was back to gale force and this time it carried a layer of topsoil with it. For the better part of Monday, we drove through an endless dust-storm. At times visibility was that poor it felt like we were driving through a dirty fog. Driving into Mungindi we were alerted to a place called the "One Ton Post", after a short detour we out it was the survey marker where the NSW/QLD border goes from a straight border to the squiggly line that then traces the Tweed River and wit that we’d crossed into QLD. Pushing on with still dust in the air we stopped at Thallon where an amazing piece of artwork adorned 4 grain silos. Our day on the road concluding at the rural hub of Roma where surprisingly we managed to get a camping spot in the multipurpose gun club.

Tuesday dawned to an even colder morning than the previous day. The BOM said it was 1deg and with us wearing shorts we felt every bit of the chill. We grabbed a few fresh supplies in town before heading out to the biggest cattle saleyards in Australia. As luck would have it, it was sale day, so the yards were full of cattle and oversize cattle trucks littered the surrounding area. I said to Ethan "don’t raise your hand too quickly or you might unexpectedly own a few cattle". Sadly for us, the sales didn’t start till midday and we had to be long gone. Continuing north the landscape took on a real arid feel with signs of the drought hurting farmers in these parts. We detoured to the town of Blackwater which unbeknown to us is a huge open-cut mining region, its also home to the family of minions that line the highway. A quick pic and with more miles ahead of us we kept pushing on and soon found ourselves in Emerald, this was to be our planned overnight stop but daylight was on our side, so we kept going to the small town of Capella where we called it a day!
Wednesday was another day on the road but it felt so remote, we seemed to drive for hours without passing through a town and the only traffic we saw were the massive road-trains that would almost blow us off the road. The desolateness eventually gave way to the rural town of Charters Towers where we spent an hour or so checking out the sights which included a picturesque view over the town and heaps of WWII history. We got some advice towns further along the road for where we might stay before continuing northwards. By late afternoon we’d arrived in the town of Greenvale, which was once a thriving Nickel town. Here every building and dwelling looked the same, which was a little creepy as only 150 people lived in town. Apparently, the mining boom had long left Greenvale and all but a few locals stayed in town. We setup in the caravan park where we had our first campfire for the trip.
Thursday morning and the gps said it was only 300km to Cairns. We headed north with a planned stop at the Undara Lava Tubes. After a 30km detour the tubes turned out to be a huge let-down. We couldn’t self-explore and a guided tour cost more than a week’s wage, so we gave it a miss and headed back to the blacktop. For the first time in our trip the weather had taken a turn for the worse and we drove through some steady rain. That didn’t stop us from taking in the sights of Innot Hot Springs and Lake Eachem. Both offering a great perspective of the region. By 3.30pm we’d descended the Atherton range and were only a few km’s from Cairns. Our next task was to find some suitable accommodation for all of us. We finally settled on a van park close to town where we setup camp for the next 3 days. As the day ended 2 other families had arrived in town. Finally, our convoy was starting to take shape.
Friday dawned as a special day for me, I was off to the airport to pick the other half of the family who flew in nice and early. After a week apart it was great to have the Bere clan back together. We spent the morning socialising around camp before doing some local sightseeing around Cairns CBD and the waterfront before doing shopping for perishable items that we needed for our trek north. As the day ended, we took in the Cairns night markets while enjoying dinner on the esplanade. Returning to camp it was pleasing to see another 2 families had arrived at the van park. We all spent the remainder of the evening socialising with a few bourbons and the NRL footy finals.

Saturday was meant to start with a sleep-in, but the bird life and the planes coming and going from Cairns put pay to any thought of a sleep-in. By late morning with a hearty breakfast under our belt we headed out for some more sightseeing. We stopped at the Cairns Skyrail (very quickly), sadly the inflated prices had us quickly back in the car and heading up the coast to the beautiful Palm Cove. This place a picturesque postcard 24/7 and we fell in love with the place, it was beautiful, and we spent a few hours exploring the place, promising ourselves that we’d return some day. Heading back towards Cairns we detoured up the escarpment to Kuranda where we visited Barron Falls and the scenic railway that winds up and down the mountains. Returning to our van park its was great to see the remainder of our convoy had all arrived in town. We quickly settled into catching up on our trip so far around the pool with a beverages in hand. Our day concluded with a meal in town and the promise of our trek to the Cape starting the following day.

Week 1 of our trip was complete. Cairns was 2800km from home and it was a long week behind the wheel. Bring on next week where we start the serious part of our trip to the Cape.

Friday, August 30, 2019

Cape York, here we come!

Its been a long time in the planning, in actual fact it was first discussed on our last group adventure to the Victorian High Country, but its finally here. Next week we head off on a 6-week adventure to Cape York.

7 vehicles will gather in Cairns before we head off in convey for a fun filled adventure to the tip. 2 years in the planning and countless hours of vehicle preparation and equipment checks are almost done. 

We’ll be traversing all the “must-do” tracks like the Creb, Frenchman’s and Old Telegraph Track as well stopping in on towns like Port Douglas, Weipa, Seisia and Cooktown. Along the way I’m sure we’ll be faced with greater challenges like negotiating our way through Gunshot Creek and Nolan’s Brook where numerous vehicles succumb to the deep-water crossings each year. If we make it past all these challenges, we’ll finally get a family photo standing next to the famous most northern point Cape York signpost.

If that doesn’t get us excited, we get to do it all again as we traverse homeward via the Palmer Gold fields and Cairns. A trip this far north wouldn’t be complete without a day-trip to the Great Barrier Reef, so hopefully we can squeeze in a visit to one of the 7 natural wonders of the world.

7 days and counting!