Sense of Satisfaction

I remember the phone rang just after getting home from work. It was the Police requesting the SES remote search capability for 2 missing bushwalkers west of Nowra. After a quick chat with the wife confirming the calendar was clear, I was grabbing my gear and out the door. A few of us met at headquarters where extra specialist gear was pack before heading southwards. 2 hours after receiving the call we were in Nowra Police station getting a brief on what little information was available about the missing bushwalkers.

As darkness fell we headed to a place called Quiera Clearing in the Morton N.P, it was from this point that we started our search of Ettrema Gorge. I’d never heard of this gorge and in the dead of night I had no idea of what lie ahead. It was after 10pm before teams headed off into the bush, however I chose to stay at our staging area and act as “SES search Commander” since I was the senior person on site. Little did I know that I’d end up coordinating the search teams for the next 48 hours through some horrendous weather conditions.

Wednesday night quickly become Thursday morning and I found myself sleeping on the front seat of the car. Rain had fallen overnight with fog and cloud making visibility of less than 100m. Our search response was growing quickly, portable comms was trucked in and search teams came and went as their availability dictated. The inclement weather showed no signs of improving, if anything it got worse as squally thunderstorms moved across us. I felt for the teams who were out walking in it, my makeshift command post quickly became the front seat of the car due the deteriorating weather. I certainly wasn’t prepared for the role of coordinator, I had no paperwork or documentation to support the role, but I did the best I could.

The media had got wind of the incident and were now circling for a story. By late afternoon on day-2 a glimmer of hope emerged as the missing bushwalkers contacted Police via the emergency app. Our search teams rallied to a possible location while a helicopter out of Nowra was tasked to the search area. Search teams finally made visual contact with the walkers but just as the rescue plan was implemented the weather closed in putting pay to any helicopter retrieval. The walkers would have to spend another night in the wilderness, but at least they were located and in good spirits.

Friday dawned in high spirits, our missing walkers had been found. Sadly, a quick helo extraction was once again ruled out due to the weather, however our enthusiastic search teams were soon heading into the wilderness to assist the walkers. A long day ensued as the vegetation made walking extremely tough, but by mid-afternoon, some 48 hours after our activation the 2 missing bushwalkers were back at the command post. After a quick check over by the paramedics the walkers were reunited with their families. Commanding multiple search teams from multiple organisations over multiple days had been extremely mentally demanding but the success of finding our 2 missing walkers, safe and well proved far more rewarding and satisfying……… I guess that’s why we do it!

Remote Search Capability

The Illawarra Remote Area Search program has been progressing well, we’ve had a few activations and training days since its inception and vibe has been positive. It was my turn to run a training weekend and I chose the Budawangs (west of Ulladulla) in the Morton NP as a perfect spot to test our skills. Just quietly I wanted to also combine my other love of geocaching with a hike in the area.

On Friday 27^th July, a few members of the group met at Wog Wog campground in anticipation of the 2-day hike the following day. As we arrived onsite we were greeted by a campfire which had us in a false sense of warmth considering how cool the surrounding temps were plummeting. After a bit of banter around the fire and our tents setup we turned in for the night.

Saturday dawned under clear skies but with a real chill in the air, we all commented on the coldness of the previous night and this was confirmed by a thermometer which read -4deg at 7am. After the remainder of our group arrived, we set-off on our hike at 9am. The crispness of the morning soon gave way to a mild day with temps in the mid-teens. The early parts of the walk were a little bland and sceneless as we made our way out onto the plateau. By late morning we’d gotten our first glimpses of the vast and spectacular Budawangs with prominent features like Pigeon House Mt and Mt Cole standing out amongst others. By 1pm we were enjoying lunch on top of Corang Peak but a strong wind had picked up making the exposed peak a little less appealing but still worthy of some great photos. Pressing on we soon found ourselves at Corang Arch while for me was geocaching goal, a recently placed cache making the hike a little more pleasant. We spent some time here exploring the surrounding caves and Conglomerate rock formations.

By mid-afternoon we’d reached our overnight destination of a well-formed camp cave. Dropping our packs after a day’s hiking felt like heaven, we each picked a suitable spot to roll out our bivvy bags before heading off in search of firewood and a nearby lookout. Traversing the track for a few more km’s we reached the stunning Yungra lookout just as the sun was setting on the expansive valley below us…. The view making the day’s hike so rewarding.

Back at our camp cave we settled in for the night as we each enjoyed a hearty meal and the warmth of good campfire. The day’s exercise had clearly taken its toll on us because by 7.30pm we’d retired to the comfort of our sleeping bags and well-earned sleep.

Sunday dawned with the winds stronger than yesterday, thankfully our camp cave had kept us well protected but soon enough we were all packed up and heading into the teeth of a chilly wind. After retracing a short section of yesterday’s walk, we were soon pushing through virgin territory as we continued our Corang Loop hike. One our team had picked up a knee strain which slowed our progress but with gritted teeth he pushed on through some noticeable pain. Traversing the various spurs and ridges we soon found ourselves walking along the banks of the Corang River. The picturesque waterway providing a perfect backdrop to stop and re-fill our water bottles while one of the many cascades gave us another opportunity to find another cache. By late morning we’d moved away from the river, making the slow uphill walk back the cars through the heavily wooded forest.

Nearly 28 hours to the hour after starting our hike we’d made it back to the warmth and comfort of our cars. We’d successfully completed the 30km Corang Loop hike and thoroughly road-tested our capability and equipment.

Victorian High Country

Anyone who’s done some 4WDriving treks will tell you, the Vic High Country is up there as one of the best 4WD spots in Australia. How could we refuse the temptation to not try it for ourselves?

With a convoy of 7 cars we set off in the April school holidays for 9 days in the Alpine National Park of Victorian. Our first day on the road saw us travel through Canberra and Cooma, followed by a quick stop at the Schnapps distillery just outside Jindabyne where some warming nectar for those cold nights ahead was obtained. Continuing south we arrived at Tom Groggin by mid-afternoon where we spent our first night on the banks of the Murray River. By dusk all 7 cars had assembled and we quickly felt at home amongst familiar friends as we laughed and joked around the campfire.

A chilly foggy Sunday morning quickly reminded us that the snow region is no place for shorts and t-shirt as we scrambled for additional clothes. We quickly packed up and excitedly headed for our first challenge, crossing the Murray River. Thankfully or probably more disappointingly river levels weren’t as high as anticipated so the thrill of having water lapping the bonnet didn’t eventuate, however it didn’t stop Sam from lifting her feet up in case water came in the car. With the crossing behind us it was onto our first uphill challenge, these up and subsequent down adventures would be the theme for the week. Our first uphill challenge took us to the dizzy heights of Mount Pinnibar 1772m which was 1000m higher than where we’d camped the night before and would ultimately be the highest point of our trip. The morning seemed to flow from one mountain top to the next and at a relative slow pace, however as the rolled into the afternoon so did mountains and we soon found ourselves on the plains north of Omeo. After a quick stop in Omeo we were heading back into the hills where we made camp near Victoria Falls. A hearty campfire and soothing port ensured the chilly night was not a threat.

It was hard to realise that Monday was a working day for many, however for us it was another day spent 4WDriving as we soon found ourselves sipping coffee in one of the pubs at Mt Hotham. A short while later we were back in the wilderness as we started our ascent of the renowned Blue Rag track. This trail cuts its way along exposed ridges and through forests of dead Mountain Ash trees before a steep and very exposed climb tops out at the Blue Rag Trig. From here the 360deg views were simply amazing as mountain after mountain seemed to fold into one another. Alas there was lots more to do so we had to press on where varying track conditions dictated our speed but most of the afternoon we found ourselves in H4. Sometime in the afternoon we arrived in the picturesque camping spot of Talbotsville vowing to return some day as the camping by the river looked very inviting. The remainder of our afternoon was spent making the very dusty and winding trek into Dargo. Once in town we sought out the local pub which offered free camping in exchange for dining at the pub, which I must say is pretty fair as many of us couldn’t finish a parmy due to the huge size.

Tuesday had us heading straight back into the mountains, today would be another memorable day as we scaled the dizzy heights of the Billy Goats Bluff track to reach the Pinnacles. For what seemed like an hour or more we went no faster than L1 would allow as we crawled our way up firstly Billy Goats knee then it was up the very exposed and ragged spur of Billy Goats Bluff, relieved to have made it to the top without having faced an oncoming car cause simply there was nowhere to pass anyone. Once at the Pinnacles we shared the 360deg views with the resident fire spotter who lives on site for a week at a time ensuring any fire outbreaks are quickly reported. After lunch we stayed up high making our way along numerous ridge lines and stopping a various huts before turning off the main ridge and dropping down into Wonnangatta Valley where we would spend the next 2 nights. As usual we enjoyed a nice night around the fire, toasting marshmallows and tasting various ports that everyone had brought along.

ANZAC day dawned to the howling of wild dogs in the hills, the night before it was the close proximity of deer that caught our attention. For me though, it was my birthday and I shared a lazy start to the day with family and friends, the fire had gone all night and we continued that theme throughout the day, all the kids played so well together while some of us used the nearby bitterly cold Wonnangatta River as an opportunity to have an improvised shower, this proving to be more comical than effective with the water temp being in the single digits. Much of the day was spent lazing around, we explored the historic Wonnangatta Station and surrounding farmland, our kids got to lesson in learning to drive the car. Thank god they have a while before they get their licence. By late afternoon our dessert chefs were busy preparing bush cheesecake and lemon meringue pie. Dinner was a lavish spread, topped with wine and bourbon. For dessert we toasted mine and Scott’s upcoming birthday before spending the rest of the night huddled around the fire.

Thursday saw us on the move again, a brief but fierce rain shower the previous afternoon meant we were packing up some wet gear. After a boring and monotonous trek into Wonnangatta Valley we chose to take a different exit route and were pleasantly surprised by how much quicker and enjoyable the climb out was, this however meant we said goodbye to Mike a little earlier than expected. With our convoy reduced by one we headed back into the mountains where we climbed up to the picturesque Lake Cobbler and a well-earned lunch break. Back in the saddle and with more exploring to be done we headed down the Staircase and onto King Hut where we decided to spend the night. An impressive and well-maintained hut beside the river provided a perfect backdrop to our campsite. As the kids entertained themselves on the swing the adults feasted in another happy hour around the late afternoon fire. As night fell so did the temperatures and with a poorly designed firepit providing limited heat we all chose to have an early night.

Friday dawned as our chilliest of the trek, the ice on the car was probably 3mm thick, the car doors were initially stuck while the car temp registered 0 deg. Thankfully it didn’t take too long for the rising sun to warm the air but our fingers suffered as we packed up cold steel poles and pegs. Just before we jumped back in the cars we were greeted by a droving family who were pushing through the valley herding their cattle off the mountain. It was a stark reminder of how farmers live off the land…. We meandered our way through the valley before climbing out to stop at the amazing “Craig’s Hut” where the views across the mountains were exhilarating. Pushing on we experienced the roughest bit of 4WDriving we’d had for the whole as topped the rise at Mt Stirling. A quick walk had us once again enjoying the magical 360 deg views at a height of 1720m. With lots more to see we kept going past Howqua Hut and onto Mt Buller where the ski resort was busily preparing for the upcoming ski season with snow being prepared for an upcoming media launch. By late afternoon it was time to head off the mountains and down into Mansfield where we had our first night in civilisation for almost a week….. A hot shower, take-away food and some creature comforts never felt so good.

Saturday morning in Mansfield was a hive of activity as the locals seem to flock to town for supplies or simply to catch up with others, there were markets and street stalls everywhere. We had a short look around town before heading towards Beechworth, we were able to squeeze in a quick stop at the Brown Brothers winery before making it to Beechworth where we indulged in the town’s famous pies for a late lunch. The sightseeing theme continued after lunch as we headed to Chiltern and Rutherglen. It was in Rutherglen where we got right into the local culture, stopping to taste a number of local renowned wines and adding a few more bottles to our increasing collection. By late afternoon we made our way down onto the banks of the Murray River where we met up with everyone one again for our final night of the trip. The banks of the Murray River was a perfect spot to unwind as we enjoyed happy-hour with friends. While some enjoyed a swim in the Murray, one of the kids surprised us by catching an impressive Murray Cod simply with a bit of cheese on the end of the hook. By nightfall we bathed in the glow of a roaring fire, the kids toasted marshmellows while others entertained an enthusiastic possum or simply relaxed with a refreshment or 2.

Sunday morning by the Murray River doesn’t get much better, however the corellas ensured it was an early awakening. We were soon packed up and heading to a neighbouring farm which was owner by relatives of the family we’d been travelling with. All the kids were delighted to get on the back of the Ute as they went around feeding the cows…. Sadly the fun was soon over and was time to tackle the 6 hour drive home for work and school the following day. By last light we pulled in the driveway having completed 9 days and 1800kms through the Victorian High Country.