Purposeful Meandering Around Remote WA - Week 5

Our week started with us in limbo, Steep Point (Australia’s most western point) is so close but it feels so far away with the roads being closed. We packed up and started heading southwards, at 10am we had to ring ahead to secure our nights camping permit @ Eagle Bluff. We stopped at Hamelin Bay to view the Stromatolites, however the area is still in disrepair after the 2021 cyclone. Sadly we left without getting close enough to view these amazing creatures. Pressing on a bit further we stop at the turn-off to Steep Point where the “Road Closed” sign teases us more than disappoints us. Continuing towards Denham we pulled into our picturesque camp for the night, which is perched high on the sand dunes overlooking the water. Since its first in best dressed we grab a spot and setup camp before heading into Denham for a bit of sightseeing. Unfortunately the wind makes it miserable so we do most of the sightseeing from the comfort of the car. Heading back to camp we position our cars in an attempt to make a wind break, it’s not all that successful but when we can get out of the wind it’s a beautiful spot to sit and do nothing. As the sun drops below the horizon so does the temperature. The ambient temp says 18deg but with the wind chill it feels like 11deg and we find ourselves rugged up like those back home at this time of year. With the wind continuing we all agree the best place to be is in our swags, so it’s an early night for us.

Sunday started early for one of our team as they’re keen to get to Monkey Mia for the dolphin feeding session, for the rest of us it’s a regulation lazy Sunday morning. The wind has died down but there’s certainly a crispness to the morning. With another night planned for this area before roads will be opened we consider moving to more sheltered spot but after a quick recce we decide to stay at our chosen spot. By mid morning we decide to do more sightseeing and head out to Monkey Mia, “oh how this place has changed” since we were here 10 years ago. We choose not to stay long before heading back into Denham. We grab fish n chips and sit by the water when news comes in that the roads to Steep Point have re-opened early. We’re primed to be heading there tomorrow. We do a bit more sightseeing before heading back to camp, the wind has abeited making it a glorious afternoon to sit in the sun overlooking the water. The water is so inviting I wade out 500m in the shallows to explore the marine life. The setting sun over the ocean is postcard perfect and worthy of the few liquid refreshments we enjoy. With the light fading once again so does the temp, but nowhere near as chilly as the previous night or is that the port warming us from the inside? We all enjoy a relaxing night as we discuss and plan our days ahead.

Monday started rather chilly but once the sun was at a decent height we were back to wearing shorts and t-shirts, we’d packed up and were on the road by 8am. There was an air of excitement amongst us as today we’d hopefully be achieving another bucket list item. We made our way back to the Steep Point entrance and surpassed our previous furthest point west. For the next 50km we were pleased to be driving on bitumen, but it was not long before that was replaced with dirt, all be it in good condition. We stopped and paid out NP admission and continue westward. The road quickly became a lot of sand dune driving along formed trails. We made our mandatory stop at the rangers residence before continuing west. Finally we reached the end of the track and the end of the mainland Australia….. We’d made it to “Steep Point”, the most western point on the mainland. We all rejoiced and set about capturing the moment with plenty of photos. Just off the coast whales were breaching as they headed north and the beauty of a nearby natural rock arch was inspected. Back in the cars we headed to the nearby fishing spot called “The Ovens”, here a 50m cliff allows fishermen to drop a line straight down into the water. We watched for a while, alas no one caught anything as the circling sharks which were clearly visible in the water took whatever the fishermen caught. Heading back we stopped a few times to dip our feet in the Indian Ocean or check out the many blowholes that dot this area. There were so many blowholes that often you didn’t see the hole in the rocks, you only heard the rushing air escaping through a crack in the rocks. By last light our epic day had finally been completed, we’d reached the main road and opted to camp in a roadside gravel pit as we were so exhausted. We quickly started a campfire, dispersing with the regular route we grabbed a bottle of port we’d saved for this special occasion and toasted our achievements with travelling companions. As it was, tonight would be our last night with everyone together as Mike was making a beeline for home the next day. We enjoyed the remainder of our night around the fire sharing many laughs and toasts on what a great trip we’d all shared, taking a moment to reflect on our 4th vehicle who had to leave us prematurely.

Tuesday dawned at a frenetic pace, the midges were having a feast on us, we noticed them the previous night but maybe the alcohol had made us numb to them and we weren’t too bothered by them, today however was a different story. We quickly packed up and headed out to the main highway where we sought breakfast at a local roadhouse. We formally said our goodbyes to Mike before jumping in our cars, Mike would soon peel off and start heading for home. The remaining 2 vehicles headed southwards to Geraldton. We quickly checked into a van park and set about catching up on some essential chores. By mid afternoon we headed out to do a bit of sightseeing and geocaching around town. The memorial for the HMAS Sydney which overlooks the town is a stark reminder of those lost at sea. We also took the opportunity to restock some perishable food as we probably won’t see a supermarket for another 10 days or more after leaving Geraldton tomorrow. The evening wizzed by as we spent most of it tidying up within the vehicle.

Wednesday started out rather chilly, a coastal breeze and single digits ensured we quickly packed up and got into the warmth of the car, sadly we started our journey East, yep we’re heading towards home. Late yesterday we received confirmation of our permit to visit Surveyor General Cnr - WA/NT/SA as we head back across central Oz, we’re looking forward to visiting this remote spot. Today was one of those boring (more like repetitious) driving days, we covered lots of territory, the vegetation changed dramatically from lush greens of hills and trees to stained browns of desert dirt and arid bushland, we passed through a few towns that barely appear to survive. The most significant thing we seen was the countless 4 trailer Road Trains (60m long) carting minerals to Geraldton for offshore use. By mid afternoon we reached the small town of Sandstone, once a thriving gold town it barely now has a population of 100 residents. There’s not much to see in town, the pub and the post office have both closed, the General store doesn’t sell fuel anymore but come sunset lots of travellers call it home for the night as it’s halfway between somewhere and nowhere. We did take the opportunity to see the nearby London Bridge rock arch which was impressive.

Thursday started with temps hovering around 4deg, our coldest morning by far. The chilly start ensured we’d packed up quicker than normal. It was another day of repetitious scenery, the only change was the splattering of mines and mullock mountains that are dotted throughout the area. Gold and Nickel are the main minerals mined out here. Mid morning we arrived at the township of Leinster, to our surprise the town is solely supported and run by BHP. There was so much in town for the workers to do it was amazing. Pressing on, we passed through Leonora and Laverton which both dished up some passing showers and wintery conditions. Laverton is the start of the “Great Central Road” or more commonly known as the longest shortcut, it joins Laverton in WA with Winton in QLD. We opted to keep going east as the conditions in Laverton weren’t favourable for camping. Much to our surprise there were still road-trains but they were only carrying essential supplies for remote communities. Trekking down the GCR we’d outrun the showers and on dusk we found a secluded spot to call home for the night. The cold night was made much better as we sat around a campfire.

Friday (today) marks the end of 5 weeks on the road and it was one of our coldest mornings. The thermometer said 7deg with a wind chill factor of a lot less. We were grateful to see the dirt road in very good condition despite recent rains closing the road last week. With good conditions we were able to make good time and by lunch we’d arrived in Warburton where fuel prices were a measly $3:60ltr for diesel and Unleaded….. Thankfully we didn’t need any. Continuing on we both commented how outback Australia must be the biggest “used car lot” this side of Parramatta Rd, there was a car wreck in varying states of repair every kilometre sometimes more along the road. It seems that “if it breaks down, that’s where you leave it”. By late afternoon and with our clocks advanced to central time we pulled up stumps at Warakurna for the night.